Indonesia: Lake Toba, Samosir Island and the Batak people

I've heard so much about Lake Toba (Danau Toba) in North Sumatra, Indonesia, the largest volcanic lake in the world. To give you perspective, it's more than twice the size of Singapore. But I didn't realize finding out how to get to Lake Toba from Medan was not going to be easy.

I was expecting there would be frequent tours to Lake Toba leaving from Medan. Bus after asking around at many local travel agencies (they mainly sell flights and outbound tours), I found out there were no tours and the best you could get from them was to hire a private vehicle, cost starting at Rp600,000 if you are lucky. But at least one gave me advice on how to get there on my own.

Getting to Lake Toba by bus from Medan
Regular and frequent bus trips leave the Amplas Terminal for Parapat, a resort town on the shores of Lake Toba. There are scheduled VIP or deluxe buses, as well as vans trips that cost up to Rp150,000. But more frequent and much cheaper are the non-aircon buses that cost between Rp32,000 to 35,000 for the five-hour bus ride. Just tell your angkot driver you want to go to Parapat and they'd point you to the bus. I ended up taking the non-aircon bus for Parapat that left at about 6:30 a.m. and arrived at 11:30 a.m. just in time for lunch.

There are a lot of hotels, resort and budget accommodation in Parapat. I was easily able to find one that fit my budget, maybe because it was a weekday. After settling down and a late lunch, I walked to the Tigaraja Pier to catch a ferry to Samosir Island.

What to see in Lake Toba
One of the main attractions of Lake Toba is Samosir Island, which is home to the Batak people. From the Tigaraja Pier in Parapat, there are ferry services to Tuk-Tuk and Tomok on Samosir Island.

Trips from Tigaraja to Tuk-Tuk start at 8:30 a.m. with the last one leaving Tigaraja at 7:00 p.m. While trips from Tuk-Tuk to Tigaraja start at 7:00 a.m. with the last one leaving Tuk-Tuk at 5:30 p.m. Trips from Tigaraja to Tomok on the other hand start at 7:00 a.m. with the last one leaving Tigaraja at 7 p.m. While trips from Tomok to Tigaraja start at 6:30 a.m. with the last one leaving Tomok at 6:30 p.m. I spent Rp10,000 for the ferry ride from Tigaraja to Tuk-Tuk.

At Tuk-Tuk, I hired a motorcycle driver to take me around the different cultural attractions. We made two stops. The first one was the Tomb of King Sidabutar. King Sidabutar, Raja di Huta was ruler of the Batak village of Tomok. Legend also says he was the first settler on Samosir Island.

From Tomok, we proceeded to Huta Siallagan in Ambarita Village. Along the way were views of verdant green rice fields and hills behind the. Samosir is quite large, you forget that you are on an island within a lake.

In Huta Siallagan, there are several Batak houses in the compound plus stone chairs carved from volcanic rock which was where King Siallagan and his council governed the village and decided the fate of criminals.

Greeting us at the gate were figures carved from volcanic stone. Huta Siallagan is a fantastic example of a traditional Batak village, definitely among the places you have to see when visiting Samosir Island.

We arrived in Tuk-Tuk just in time for the 5:30 p.m. ferry back to Tigaraja. Samosir Island also has a lot of accommodation options for all budgets. Many visitors opt to stay here for a night or two and explore the rest of the island or proceed to other towns along the shores of Danau Toba. One of the resorts I particularly found charming was the Silintong Hotel in Tuk-Tuk (silintong_hotel@yahoo.com; 0625 451242) which I would have enjoyed staying at if I had the time.

Visa-free countries for Philippine passport holders

Philippine passport holders can visit 58 destinations without the need to secure a visa before arrival according to the 2013 Henley & Partners Visa Restriction Index. Add the new visa-free access to Myanmar, that brings it to a total of 59 destinations where Philippine passport holders can enter visa-free.

There however seems to be conflicting reports as to which countries and destinations are actually included as well as the length of visa-free access. In fact, there are more than 59 in the list below. I've personally experienced that the length of visa-free access for some South American countries published online are not accurate and are shorter than stated. Length may also vary depending on your port of entry. Some countries give longer visa-free stays for airport arrivals versus land border crossings.

In all cases, make sure to verify with the diplomatic post (embassy or consulate) of the country since policies may change. For example, Philippine passport holders can no longer enter Kosovo without a visa as of July 1, 2013.

The following countries and territories allow visa-free access to Philippine passport holders traveling for tourism purposes:
Bolivia (30 days)
Brazil (90 days)
Brunei (14 days)
Cambodia (21 days)
Colombia
Cook Islands (31 days)
Costa Rica (30 days)
Dominica (21 days)
Ecuador (90 days)
Fiji (4 months)
Gambia (90 days with prior approval from Gambian Immigration)

Haiti (3 months)

Hong Kong (14 days)
Indonesia (30 days)
Israel (3 months)
Laos (30 days)
Macau (30 days)
Malaysia (30 days)
Micronesia
Mongolia (21 days)
Morocco (90 days)
Myanmar (14 days)
Niue (30 days)
Palestine
Peru (60 days)
St. Vincent and the Grenadines (1 month)
Singapore (30 days)
Suriname (90 days)
Thailand (30 days at airport; 15 days at border crossing)
Vanuatu (30 days)
Vietnam (21 days)

The following countries and territories grant visa on arrival to Philippine passport holders. Make sure to check for requirements with the embassy or consulate of the country:
Armenia (E-visa can be obtained through website; 120 days)
Burundi (30 days at Bujumbura International Airport)
Cape Verde
Comoros
Djibouti
Georgia
Guinea-Bissau
India (E-visa required)
Iran (E-visa pre-approval code obtained via e-mail from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and arriving at Chah-Bahar, Qeshm, Kish, Mashad, Esfahan, Shiraz, Tabriz and Tehran)
Kenya
Kyrgyzstan (30 days)
Madagascar (90 days)
Maldives (30 days)

Mali

Marshall Islands
Mauritania (at Nouakchott Airport)
Mozambique
Nepal (See Nepal visa on arrival instructions)
Nicaragua
Palau (30 days; proof of sufficient funds, at least US$200 per week)
Papua New Guinea (60 days)
Sri Lanka (must secure Electronic Travel Authorization)
Saint Lucia (6 weeks)
Samoa (Entry Permit on arrival; 60 days)
Seychelles (Visitor's Permit on arrival; 1 month)
Somalia (pre-submitted invitation letter required; 30 days)
Tajikistan (45 days)
Tanzania
Timor-Leste (30 days; US$30 visa fee)
Togo (7 days)
Turkmenistan (to be arranged by tour company registered in Turkmenistan)
Tuvalu (1 month)
Uganda
Zambia (90 days)

The following countries and territories allow visa-free access to Philippine passport holders traveling for on cruise liners:
Bahamas (only for cruise ship passengers; entry and exit must be by cruise ship)
St. Kitts and Nevis (if stay is less than 24 hours)
Aruba (if stay is less than 48 hours)
Bonaire (if stay is less than 48 hours)
Curaçao (if stay is less than 48 hours)
Saba (if stay is less than 48 hours)
St. Eustatius (if stay is less than 48 hours)
St. Maarten (if stay is less than 48 hours)

Some countries also allow conditional visa exemption to Philippine passport holders provided they have valid visas to other countries. Valid means it's a multiple entry visa that has not expired. For European countries that allow visa-free access on a Schengen visa, take note that since they are out of the Schengen area, you will require a multiple-entry Schengen visa to reenter the Schengen area. Countries that give conditional visa exemption with valid visas to countries in parenthesis include:
Albania (Schengen, type C or D only, US, UK)
Andorra (Schengen)
Antigua and Barbuda (US, Canada, Schengen, UK)
Bosnia and Herzegovina (Schengen)
Bulgaria (Schengen)
Croatia (Schengen)
Cyprus (Schengen)
Dominican Republic (Canada, US, Schengen)
El Salvador (Canada, US, Schengen)
Guatemala (Canada, US, Schengen)
Honduras (Canada, US, Schengen)
Mexico (US)
Macedonia (Schengen with approval from Ministry of Interior)
Montenegro (Ireland, Schengen, UK, US)
Nicaragua (Canada, US, Schengen)
Romania (Schengen)
Taiwan (Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Schengen, UK, US but must secure Online Travel Authority)

Here is how to apply for a Schengen visa in the Philippines and how to apply for a British visa in the Philippines.

China allows visa-free access to Hainan for Philippine passport holders who are part of a tour group organized by an accredited tour company based in Hainan. China also allows visitors to Hong Kong and Macau visa-free access to the Pearl Delta River (Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Zhuhai, Foshan, Dongguan, Zhongshan, Jiangmen, Zhaoqing, Huizhou and Shantou) provided you are part of a tour group organized by a Hong Kong or Macau-based travel agency and tour is six days or less.

For the rest of China, here's how to apply for a Chinese visa in the Philippines.

South Korea allows visa-free access to Jeju Island only for stays of 30 days or less.

For the rest of South Korea, here's how to apply for a South Korean visa in the Philippines.

Jordan is said to grant visa-free entry through Aqaba provided you leave the from the same border and within 30 days or less.

The following countries grant online visa applications: Rwanda, Saint Kitts and Nevis, and São Tomé and Príncipe

Again, in all cases, make sure to verify with the diplomatic post (embassy or consulate) of the country since policies may change. This list was created to help travelers plan their trips and we will not be responsible if you are denied entry in a country for not having the necessary requirements. Happy trip!

Pag wala po la listahan, malamang kailangan ng visa. Dahil maraming insidente ng TNT sa mga Pinoy, kailangan natin ng visa para makapasok sa karamihan ng mga bansa. Ito ay para mapigilan ang ilegal na pagtrabaho sa mga bansa nila. Kung gusto niyo magtrabaho sa ibang bansa, kumuha kayo ng tamang "work visa" at siguraduhing maayos ang mga papeles bago umalis ng Pilipinas.

We all live to have a brighter life

Have you ever considered what a brighter life is? In a world where we all have to make choices, giving up one thing for another, how can we achieve a brighter life? For me, getting to live comfortably and happy, experiencing different cultures and new places, is enough to have a brighter life.

The Brighter Life Philippines website was shared to me by my friends at Sun Life Financial. We all have financial issues that we need to overcome, maybe not of the same magnitude, but definitely a burden we all need to let go off. The website was created to inspire and educate Filipinos toward financial security. They obviously vary depending on your own personal circumstances. But there is definitely an invaluable piece of information for every situation that requires financial decisions, from personal to family affairs or career to lifestyle concerns. Check out the Personal Finance section for articles on finance written in layman’s terms. There’s an article there entitled “Pinoy style financial planning” for some money tips for our situation.

For more tips about personal finances, visit http://brighterlife.com.ph.

Indonesia: Eating in Medan

Medan, Indonesia is know among locals for its food because of the many different cuisines available there. Among the ethnic groups represented in Medan are the Malay, Acehnese, Javanese, Batak, Minangkabau (Padang/West Sumatra), Chinese, Southern Indians and Northern Indians among others, each with their own unique cuisine. So although not as popular as other Indonesian tourism destinations, Medan is one great place for food tourism. Here are some of the dishes I got to try during my tip to Medan. And it's definitely just the tip of the iceberg.

You will find many Masakan Padang at Padang-style eateries and restaurants, with Nasi Padang dishes on display on high stacked-plates in glass-covered food carts or restaurant windows. Padang is capital of the neighboring province of West Sumatra (Sumatera Barat). A popular dish they serve is Ikan Bakar, a generic term for grilled fish or seafood, which can be prepared in many ways and various flavors. At the restaurant I had lunch at, you could order on for take-away, with rice, vegetables and sauces, packed in a banana leaf and brown paper.

For lunch, it was Ayam Goreng, a generic term for chicken deep-fried in coconut oil. But Padang-style Ayam Goreng has spicy granules. It's served with vegetables, rice, sambal belacan (chili) and tempe goreng (chips). I opted to add deep-fried tahu (tofu) with chili sauce to complete my lunch.

In Parapat, I had more Padang dishes including Beef Rendang, beef chunks stewed in coconut milk and chili gravy until dry. With it, I had Telur Dudur Padang (Padang-style omelette) and Daun Singkong (cassava leaves in soup.

Back in Medan, I was craving for satay. Too bad the stall beside my hotel selling Sate Padang (in thick yellow sauce) was closed that day. So I got introduced to Acehnese cuisine through Sate Matang, served with peanut sauce.

With it, I had Martabak Telur (savory egg pancake) topped with pickled onions and chili. For dessert, I had Roti Cane, a sweet version of Roti Canai served with sugar on top instead of curry on the side.

The next day, I tried the Mie Aceh (spicy Aceh-style fried egg noodles) at another stall near the hotel.

Of course, because North Sumatra has a lot of durian plantations, you have to try the durian! Beside my hotel is Ucok Durian, a popular durian supplier which is open 24/7!

But then again, those were just a few dishes. And there were thousands of others to choose from! So take your pick and food trip in Medan, Indonesia if you get the chance. Here are some helpful tips about Medan and its attractions if you do decide to visit.

Indonesia: What to see in Medan & North Sumatra

So I decided to fly to Medan to cross out Sumatra from my list of places to visit. Medan is the capital of North Sumatra (Sumatera Utara). The main attraction of North Sumatra is Lake Toba, a five-hour land trip from Medan. But the city has some interesting heritage buildings and is a melting pot of different cuisines making it a very popular food tourism destination.

Bus to Medan from Kualanamu International Airport (KNO)
The new Kualanamu International Airport is about 40 kilometers from Medan. There are many ways to get to Medan from the airport. The cheapest way is by taking the Damri Airport Bus which costs Rp10,000 to the Amplas Terminal (which is far from the city center) and Rp15,000 to the downtown area.

From Amplas, you can take an angkot (public minivan) to the downtown area, about Rp6,000. Angkots have route numbers on them. So make sure to ask your hotel what angkot number to take from Amplas and where to get off. Note though that it can get really tight and uncomfortable. So it's not a good idea if you have lots of luggage. Buses out of Medan also leave from Amplas. So if you are going to Lake Toba, you can take a bus to Parapat directly from Amplas.

If you take the Damri bus all the way to the downtown area, find out which stop is closest to your hotel. You can hire a becak (trishaw); but knowing you just came from the airport, they'll try to charge you as much as they can. But it shouldn't cost more than Rp15,000 to Rp20,000.

The fastest way from Kualanamu to Medan is by train. It will take about 45 minutes and costs Rp80,000. That will depend of course if there is a train leaving when you exit the airport (wait is between 1 to 2 hours between trips). The most convenient way is of course by taxi. But that will set you back by at least Rp150,000.

What to see in Medan
Unfortunately, most people you'll encounter in Medan don't speak English. So it's quite difficult to communicate. A Bahasa Indonesia phrasebook may come in handy. Since there are just a few attractions in the city, getting around can be easy if you know what angkut number passes by them. You can also haggle with a becak to take you to them (difficult to bargain with them though if you can't speak the language since they know you are a tourist) or take a Blue Bird taxi for comfort.

The major attractions are the Masjid Raya Al-Mashun and Istana Maimun (Maimun Palace). Masjid Raya Al-Mashun is definitely a landmark of Medan and the largest mosque in North Sumatra. It was built by Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid from 1906 to 1909. Designed by Dutch architects (initially by van Erp; but work was continued by A.J. Dingemans), many of the materials were imported including chandeliers from France, tiles from Italy and stained glass windows from China.

The main dome has an octagonal floor plan. There are four domed wings attached to the main building and four arched hallways connecting the wings. Architectural influences from both Europe and the Middle East are evident.

Outside the mosque is a cemetery where many members of the royal family are buried. A minaret stands proudly in one corner of the property, where calls to prayer echo from loud speakers attached to the top.

Note that shorts are not allowed inside the mosque. You will be asked to wear a sarong. Mandatory contributions for visitors are requested when you register at the gate, usually between Rp5,000 to Rp20,000. And you will also be asked to contribute to the shoe deposit when you take off your shoes or slippers as you enter the main building.

The Istana Maimun (Maimoon Palace) was the royal palace of the Sultanate of Deli and built by Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid (Tuangku Ma'moen Al Rasyid) in 1888. Just like the mosque, the mix of architectural styles (Malay, Dutch, Turkish, Spanish, etc.) is very evident.

Although the current sultan no longer wields political power, he still lives in the palace. But visitors are allowed to explore the throne room. There's a Rp5,000 fee to enter. Inside, you can also dress like the sultan and the royal family. Rental fee for the baju is Rp10,000.

Another attraction I got to visit is the Kuil Shri Mariamman (Shri Mariamman Temple), a Hindu temple built in 1884. One heritage landmark I missed was the Tjong A Fie Mansion which has many similarities to Penang's Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion.

Now time to find out what to eat in Medan, Indonesia!

Extended MRT-3 operating hours beginning Monday

Extended MRT-3 operating hours will be tested by the DOTC and MRT-3 for one month beginning on Monday, February 24, 2014 to give further traffic-mitigating options to the public, according to DOTC spokesperson Dir. Michael Arthur Sagcal.

"From February 24 to March 7, [MRT-3] will start at 4:30 a.m. (from the North Ave. station) and 5:00 a.m. (from the Taft Ave. station), instead of 5:30 a.m. for both. From March 10 to 21, the last trips will run at 10:30 p.m. (from North Ave.) and 11:00 p.m. (from Taft) instead of 10:30 p.m., in addition to the earlier start of operations.

"The one-month testing period will allow [DOTC] to see whether commuters are willing to change their riding habits to earlier and later trips, and whether motorists will prefer to take the train over their cars. [DOTC] will also be able to assess its impact on nightly maintenance hours and operational costs for long-term sustainability."

PNR Special Coach from Sta. Rosa, Laguna to Tutuban, Manila
Another traffic-mitigating measure that the DOTC is rolling out is a PNR Special Coach service from Santa Rosa, Laguna to Tutuban, Manila. This will provide an alternative to those affected by the construction of the Skyway Stage 3 and NAIA Expressway, especially for motorists and commuters coming from the southern part of Metro Manila and Laguna.

According to Dir. Sagcal, "On March 3, the PNR will launch a Special Coach service, which will ply the Tutuban, Manila to Sta. Rosa, Laguna commuter rail line. These air-conditioned Special Coaches will have fixed seating, on-board comfort rooms, reclining seats, and a lounge area. Up to 120 people can take [the service] per trip.

"The Special Coach service will leave the Tutuban Station at 5:47 a.m. and 4:17 p.m.; and will leave the Sta. Rosa station at 8:00 a.m. and 6:08 p.m. daily. To get to the Buendia station in Makati, it takes 31 minutes from Tutuban, and 1 hour and 15 minutes from Sta. Rosa.

"Minimum fare is P60.00, which is good for the first 32 kilometers. For those traveling beyond this distance (the entire length of the commuter line is 48 kilometers), the fare is P90.00.

"More Special Coach trips may be added, depending on ridership demand. The PNR will also extend the operations its regular commuter line service, from the current 5 a.m. to 7 p.m., to the extended hours of 4 a.m. to 8 p.m."

Thailand: Wat Phra That Lampang Luang in Lampang

Wat Phra That Lampang Luang or the Temple of Lampang's Great Budhha Relic is a Lanna-stlye Buddhist temple in Lampang, Thailand. From Sukhothai, we proceeded by land to Chiang Mai, making a brief stop at this revered temple in Lampang. It's said to be the most beautiful wooden Lanna temple in northern Thailand. We had now crossed into the territory of the old Lanna Kingdom, which was a separate kingdom until 1775.

When Buddha was cremated, there was a rush to collect bones and ashes as relics which have been venerated for centuries in temples such as this all over Asia. The relic is in the main chedi of the temple. The fortified temple or wiang, built on top of a mound and surrounded by high walls, dates back to 1476 and is said to be the oldest surviving wooden structure in Thailand.

A very intricate gilded altar or mondop is the highlight of Wihan Phra Put, the main prayer hall or wihan where the image of Phra Chao Lan Ton (Buddha Lan Ton), a bronze statue of the Buddha, is enshrined. There are other wihans, some of them containing traces of the original murals, which means they may also be among the oldest in Thailand.

At the back is a structure which only men can enter. Close the doors to be able to see a camera obscura image of the wihan and chedi projected upside down on a white cloth. Another camera obscura image can be found in Wihan Nam Tam, the wihan with a three-tiered roof.

On the way out, you will pass by a sacred Bodhi tree symbolically supported by dozens of wooden poles offered by devotees, a Lanna ritual. Every year, during the Songkran or Thai New Year, the Northern Thais hold the Hae Mai Kam Salee, a ritual of the Bodhi tree's pole. The Bodhi tree represents Buddhism and placing supporting poles beneath the tree's branches signifies the support of the laity.

This temple is about 20 kilometers from Lampang itself. We were rushing from Sukhothai since they closed the temple before 5 p.m. Good thing we made it! After that brief visit, we were off to Chiang Mai for dinner.

Thailand: Si Satchanalai Historical Park in Sukhothai Province

Si Satchanalai Historical Park is one of three ancient towns included in the World Heritage inscription Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns. If Sukhothai was the political and administrative capital, Si Satchanalai served as the spiritual center of the kingdom, with its many temples and Buddhist monasteries. The town is 90 kilometers from Sukhothai.

As part of the tourism workshop we attended in Sukhothai, the plan was to bike all the way to Si Satchanalai. But plans were changed and we took a van to Sawankhalok, and did the bicycle tour to Si Satchanalai from there. The 40-kilometer bike trip ended at Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, a first class royal temple three kilometers outside the Si Satchanalai wall.

Other major temples and sites are located within the old town of Si Satchanalai. Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo is one of the most beautiful temples of Sukhothai Province. Its features include a main chedi and 33 subordinate chedis. The temple is believed to have kept the cremated remains of the Sukhothai royal family.

Wat Chang Lom's main landmark is a bell-shaped chedi on a platform supported by 39 stucco elephants. Between the chedi and the platform are niches with statues of Buddha subduing Mara.

Delicate stucco reliefs have survived on one of the walls of Wat Nang Phaya. The wall is protected by a roof to prevent further damage from the elements.

Thailand: Sukhothai Historical Park

Sukhothai, Thailand was the capital of the first Kingdom of Siam during the 13th and 14th centuries. Most of the ruins of this ancient city are located within the Sukhothai Historical Park. Together with Si Satchanalai and Kampaheng Phet, they form the Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns, a World Heritage Site. And since it is a World Heritage Site, it was definitely on my bucketlist!

During my first visit, despite the gloomy skies, I still went ahead with the seven hour bus ride from Bangkok to Sukhothai just to visit its famed temples. I had learned upon my arrival that much of Sukhothai was submerged under water just a few days before. In fact, there were sandbags all over the place and you could see that the water level of the rivers was high. On the way to the park, it was still raining. But when I arrived, the rain suddenly stopped and the sun came out later in the day. So I was lucky!

While it's not difficult to walk around the park, you can rent a bike or hire a motorbike or tuktuk to speed up your pace visiting the ruins scattered around the park. I hired a motorbike with driver from my hostel to take me around.

Last year, I was back again in Sukhothai for a workshop of the ICOMOS International Cultural Tourism Committee. This time, the weather was beautiful and the sun was out! Wat Mahathat was the largest and principal temple of Sukhothai. The wat is surrounded by a wall that is said to represent the outer wall of the universe. Around the wall is a moat representing the cosmic ocean. The large Buddha images and chedi spires in the lotus-bud motif are iconic images which adorn many photos from Sukhothai. If you look closely, you will see that some of the original bas relief details layared with stucco can still be seen at Wat Mahathat.

There are so many ruins and historical sites in the park. And depending on your level of interest (for some, if you've seen one, you've seen them all), you can try to visit all the major ones, about twenty or so, or select the more interesting sites if you want to take it slow.

Another famous temple is Wat Si Sawai which features three Khmer-style towers. It reminds me of Angkor Wat, and was in fact, built by the Khmers as a Hindu temple. Wat Sa Si is a temple that is built on an island in the middle of Traphang Trakuan Pond.

Then there is Wat Si Chum which features an eleven-meter Buddha image covered in stucco seated inside a brick Mandapa building. This 13th century temple is also known as the Temple of the Bodhi Tree. I had a photo taken right beside the Buddha's large hand that has been covered in gold leaf offered by devotees.

I can't remember how many temples I got to visit. I tried to visit them all since it's a single ticket for all the temples within the inner city, and another ticket for all those outside. Hopefully you don't get all templed-out before seeing them all because each Sukhothai temple is definitely worth a visit.