Chio Sai Siong Hong Kong Temple 石狮城皇公廟 in Manila Chinatown

Chinese New Year celebrations in Manila Chinatown have become extremely crowded, commercial, and in a way, adulterated – with the unwelcome aswangs, drag queens and ati-atihan groups going around and asking for money (they are obviously out of place); sometimes, I lose motivation to experience the festivities. But I was pleasantly surprised that outside Chinese New Year, there are other colorful celebrations in Binondo, Manila, such as temple feasts, if you know when and where to look for them (dates change with the lunar calendar too).

One of them is at the Chio Sai Siong Hong Kong Temple 石狮城皇公廟 where they celebrate annually the "birthday" of the Taoist deity Siong Hong Kong 城皇公, whose devotion originates from Chio Sai or Shishi City in Fujian, China. I realized San Fernando, Pampanga also has its own Jeosay Shinhongkong Temple meaning the forebearers who brought the images to the Philippines may have come from the same hometown.

So on Araw ng Maynila (good thing it was a holiday, no traffic), we were in Binondo first thing in the morning to watch a colorful procession leave the temple, go through the streets of Binondo and Santa Cruz, and return to the temple on Tomas Pinpin Street. It had all the makings of a community celebration without any trace of commercial advertising. Rather than brave the crowds on Chinese New Year, fight for space to watch the lion and dragon dances, or jostle for limited seats in our favorite restaurants, this was perfect! No tourists taking selfies here!

Fireworks announced the start of the procession. It was led by the temple banners, followed by the first carroza (yes, a Catholic carroza borrowed from the Binondo Church) with several Taoist deities with sampaguita leis. The drum and lyre band of Philippine Sun Yat Sen High School came after. It was quite amusing hearing the band play "Happy Birthday" every now and then for Siong Hong Kong.

Performing in the middle of the procession were lion and dragon dances.

Devotees bearing on their shoulders the century-old image of Santo Siong Hong Kong 城皇公 on a small wooden platform then followed. Everyone was in red!

At the end of the procession was yet another Catholic carroza with two Taoist deities, one of them Hu Din Ma. You could definitely see the fusion between different cultures here in the Philippines.

Back at the temple, the images were brought inside one by one beginning with Siong Hong Kong. They seemed to follow a particular order of entrance into the temple. Candies and coins were thrown for good luck. And the community partook of cha mi sua or misua guisado once the ceremonies were over.

Thank you to Ivan Man Dy of Old Manila Walks for letting me know about this! Since the celebration follows the lunar calendar, dates vary every year.

Hagisan ng Suman and Mayohan sa Tayabas, Quezon! Viva San Isidro Labrador!

While Lucban celebrates the Pahiyas Festival, other towns in Quezon have their own celebrations for the feast of San Isidro Labrador every May 15. In Tayabas, the city holds the Mayohan sa Tayabas. Unlike Lucban, only the area of Munting Bayan in Tayabas has pahiyas or decor on the houses.

The riotous procession of San Isidro Labrador makes its way around Tayabas City on May 15. Notice the baliskog piled on both sides of the road, showcased during the Parada ng Baliskog.

Mayohan sa Tayabas actually lasts several days, usually beginning on May 7 with the Parada ng Baliskog (kog means arch) at 3 p.m. The sixty-six barangays and various organizations create arches made of indigenous materials, flowers and produce and parade them around the city.

But the main event is the Hagisan ng Suman on May 15 itself. It is actually a procession of the centuries-old image of San Isidro Labrador. It leaves the Tayabas Basilica between 2 to 3 p.m. and makes its way around the city for several hours. It ends up being a males only procession because things get really rough and riotous.

Hundreds of suman are thrown from the balcony of Tayabas City Hall

As the image of San Isidro Labrador passes by a house, its residents start throwing suman, fruits and other local produce, as well as money and other goodies (some immigrant families ship boxes of imported goods to their relatives for the hagisan). This symbolizes the sharing of wealth and prosperity to farmers and peasants. The farmers believe that the more suman you catch, the bigger the yield for the year.

Unfortunately, the crowd of catchers has changed and the catching has gotten really aggressive. Even I got caught in the frenzy while taking photos, and one can get hurt if you don't move with the crowd, especially since the procession moves really fast. But it's really fun watching. And if you know anyone from Tayabas, you should join the hagisan from their balconies since that is even more fun!

Tayabas Basilica

And since you are in Tayabas, you should visit their heritage sites. The city has several National Cultural Treasures, namely the Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel and the Tayabas Historic Bridges namely Alitao, Isabel II, Francisco de Asis, Gibanga, Malagonlong, Lakawan, Mate, Ese, Despedida, and Tuloy. The Casa de la Communidad de Tayabas is a National Historical Landmark.

Santuario de las Almas

Ermita Church

Tayabas Cemetery

Tayabas Cemetery Chapel

The town also has three centuries-old chapels, namely the Santuario de las Almas on the way to Lucena, Ermita Church near the basilica, and the Tayabas Cemetry Chapel in Munting Bayan.

Here's information on the Pahiyas Festival in Lucban, Quezon.

Pahiyas Festival in Lucban, Quezon! Viva San Isidro Labrador!

Quezon celebrates the feast of San Isidro Labrador, patron saint of farmers, on May 15 every year, with colorful festivals. The Pahiyas Festival in Lucban is the most popular and no doubt, the most lively of the festivals! Here's a guide to help you experience the Pahiyas Festival.

The day starts with a Mass at 6 a.m. at the Lucban Church. It is followed by a procession of the images of San Isidro Labrador and his wife, Santa María de la Cabeza (Blessed Maria Torribia), that leaves the church at 7 a.m. It makes its way around Lucban's designated procession route for the year. There are years when a marching band accompanies the procession, announcing its arrival along the route. But there are times that there is none, which unfortunately makes the fiesta atmosphere less lively.

Not all houses in Lucban decorate for the Pahiyas Festival. Only houses along the procession route are decorated. And every year, the procession route changes. It takes about seven years before the procession passes by a house again, giving a household enough time to save resources and prepare for the colorful and ostentatious decorations that are an inherent part of the Pahiyas Festival.

In between the morning procession and the parade in the afternoon, visitors get to walk around town and look at the colorful decorations called pahiyas, thus the name of the festival. You can also go shopping at the many stalls and a tiangge featuring handicrafts from Quezon and Laguna. Some use the time to explore other towns, or visit restaurants and resorts outside Lucban.

At about 3 p.m., a lively parade makes its way around town. Unfortunately, this parade has been invaded by not so subtle commercial advertising. Some people like it. But I don't. So I usually end up in Tayabas to watch the procession and the riotous agawan of suman (glutinous rice cakes).

In the evening, there's a different atmosphere in Lucban. The same decorated homes now compete for the evening pahiyas competition. Lighting becomes an important factor. And the procession route becomes a fantastic display of color and lights.

Traveling to Lucban, Quezon
There are two routes to Lucban, the one via Los Baños and Pagsanjan, and the other via San Pablo City and Maharlika Highway. I recommend the one via Los Baños after experiencing heavy traffic along Maharlika Highway (total standstill for an hour at 4 a.m. due to a truck accident). And since there are so many buses and trucks, the route can get really dangerous.

If you're taking a private car, you have to leave Manila before 4 a.m. if you want to make it to the morning procession. That also means there are more parking slots available outside town when you arrive. It's best to park farther away (for ease when leaving) and then just take a tricycle to the drop-off point.

Those who don't want to drive can join a tour, which is more convenient than taking public transportation, especially since all roads lead to Lucban, Tayabas and Sariaya.

Things to eat in Lucban
Lucban longganisa tops the list of things to eat and take home from Lucban. You can enjoy them deep-fried served with rice and egg in restaurants and stalls, or grilled on a stick along the street.

Pancit habhab is another favorite. While it's available along the parade route and sold in small servings on banana leaves (Php10), I noticed the ones at restaurants tend to have more toppings.

Read more on the Pahiyas Festival, Agawan Festival in Sariaya and Mayohan sa Tayabas.

Manila: Chinatown food trip & staycation in Binondo

Who would have thought a staycation in Manila was a viable option? We got to experience one during Chinese New Year at Ramada Manila Central in Binondo where we spent the night before the Lunar New Year. It was a very convenient way of enjoying Manila Chinatown cuisine and the festivities the next day within walking distance from where we were staying.

In fact, as soon as we were done checking-in at the hotel, we went straight for dim sum at President Tea House. Restaurants were full that night since it was the bisperas and we had to queue. But it was well worth the wait as we enjoyed some really good Tsinoy food.

To get rid of the obvious weight gain from the sumptuous food, we walked around Binondo's interesting streets (which are very quiet on a normal night) and visited some of its hidden temples. I say hidden because most of them are located on the roof tops of buildings, such as the Te Ah Kong (Teyakong) Temple, a Taoist temple located near the corner of Ongpin and Kipuja Streets. Another interesting temple nearby is the Shi Ong Hu Temple along T. Alonzo Street, a Buddhist temple which occupies at least two floors of the building where it is located.

We were back at Ramada Manila Central before midnight and watched the fireworks from our hotel room window. The next day, we visited the roof deck bar of the hotel to see the view of Binondo from above. Ongpin was alive and crowded with so many visitors enjoying the festivities. Later in the morning, we got to watch the lion dance hired by the hotel before moving around.

Lunch was at Xiao Chun Yuan Restaurant near the corner of Ongpin and S. Padilla (Gandara) Streets. We tried out their Oyster Cake, Mapo Tofu, Polonchay and Pork Mushroom, another hearty Chinatown meal! For the afternoon, since it was a bit hot, we went back to the hotel to take a nap. Anyway, most of the dance troupes were resting as well.

By late afternoon, all the troupes were out again. Aside from the lion dances, we also got to see colorful dragon dance troupes. Unfortunately, the out of place freak shows were making their appearances as well, trying to compete for attention with the genuine lion and dragon dance troupes that are an inherent part of the celebration. These outsiders should be reminded that it isn't Ati-Atihan, nor was it a Pride March, or even Halloween (poor business owners were trying to shoo away people dressed as aswangs dancing in front of their establishments since to them, they are malas or symbols of bad luck). These outsider groups, mostly drag queens, fire eaters and fiesta drummers, were obviously there for the money. So at the very least, they should have matched their acts with the occasion which was Chinese New Year. And visitors should stop giving them money so as not to encourage them to come back again next year. But at least I noticed more lion dance troupes this year which was a good sign.

The main reason we went out was to get some Fried Siopao from Ching Hong Foods along Benavidez Street.  We got there just in time since a new batch was about ready for serving and this sumptuous snack is sold out before you know it.

We actually so enjoyed our stay at the hotel so much because of the convenience that we decided to extend for another night to experience more of Chinatown. Dinner was at the Royale Sharksfin Seafood Restaurant (no we did not have sharks fin and I hope they don't serve it), which according to my tokayo, Mr. Old Manila Walks, is one of the best restaurants in Binondo. We were not disappointed.

Before calling it a night, the two Ivans got a foot massage at the spa located at the first floor of the hotel, a perfect way to end the night, especially for Ivan Man Dy, who had been touring people around Manila Chinatown the whole day. It may not be as festive on other days, but Binondo is worth a staycation any day of the year if only for the food!

Where to stay in Binondo, Manila
Ramada Manila Central, a Wyndham hotel, is conveniently located at the corner of Ongpin and Quintin Paredes Streets, beside Binondo Church. Rooms are cozy and comfortable. And its location makes exploring Binondo even easier.

Telephone: +63 (2) 5886688 / 3544151
Fax: +63 (2) 3544152
E-mail: reservations@ramadamanilacentral.com

Pampanga: Giant Lantern Festival 2010

Better late than never! Congratulations to Barangay Santa Lucia for winning the Giant Lantern Festival 2010. They beat defending champions Barangay Dolores who placed second this year. Completing the top three is Barangay San Nicolas.



It's actually very difficult to judge the competition. But I guess the winners were quite obvious this year. I felt though that we need to jazz up the music next year for better audience impact. It should be a mix and remix of Christmas, pop and traditional music. It's also weird that some entries had similar music for the first round. I hope they become more creative next year and invest on the festival pieces.

See you all at the Giant Lantern Festival 2011 on December 17, 2011!

Giant Lantern Festival 2010: Mangan Tamu! The Ultimate Pampanga Food and Heritage Tour (Christmas Edition)

It's Christmas once again and it's time for another Giant Lantern Festival. Join Ultimate Philippines Tours as we journey to the central heartland and immerse ourselves in things Kapampangan on December 18, 2010!

From buro to Baroque, it will be a fun-filled day as we poke around and get intimate with the very best of Pampanga's cultural offerings. Gawk at the jewel-box of a church in Betis while wading through the lahar-buried town of Bacolor.

We'll stuff ourselves silly with a pre-Christmas Kapampangan noche buena fare by one of the country's best known Kapampangan chefs! And to it cap it off, get a front row view of the most dazzling display of Kapmpangan artistry the Ligligan Parul (Giant Lantern Festival) of San Fernando! It's a tour with nothing but Kapampangan cool!

Itinerary
9:00 a.m. ETD Metro Manila
10:30 a.m. Bacolor Church - We stop by this historic town which was almost wiped out by volcanic mud flows. We visit the half-buried San Guilliermo Church
11:30 a.m. Betis Church - Admire the beautiful interior of the province's most treasured Barouqe structure, the 17th century Santiago Apostol Church, a National Cultural Treasure.
1:00 p.m. Bale Dutung in Angeles City - Indulge in a Kapampangan feast as we learn cooking secrets with chef, artist and writer, Claude Tayag.
4:00 p.m. Depart for Giant Lantern Festival
5:00 p.m. Pasalubong Shopping
6:00 p.m. Robinsons Starmills Pampanga - You are free to check out and shop for bargains at Pampanga's biggest outlet mall while waiting for the festival to start.
7:00 p.m. Giant Lantern Festival - Be dazzled by the giant Christmas lanterns of San Fernando as they dance in an interplay of music and lighting artistry!
9:00 p.m. ETD San Fernando
10:30 p.m. ETA Metro Manila

The tour fee is Php4,500 per person inclusive of all meals and transportation. For bookings and inquiries, e-mail us at reservations@ultimatephilippines.com or call (0917) 3291622. For more details, check out the Ultimate Pampanga Christmas Edition event page on Facebook.

Hong Kong: HK Wine & Dine Festival 2010

After that wine overload in Portugal's Douro Valley last June, I was yearning for another wine binge of sorts. And the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival was it! After a few hours of settling in, we proceeded to the Kowloon Waterfront Promenade to attend the exclusive opening and gala night of the event organized by the Hong Kong Tourism Board.


As soon as we arrived, we were given our IDs, Stölzle wine glasses and tokens to exchange for wine and food. Among the wines featured at the festival were personal choices of French President Nicolas Sarkozy and US President Barack Obama. I got to try a wide-array of wines from all over the world including France, Australia, the U.S. and even Macedonia.


Special mention goes to the booth of Adelaide Cellardoor in the Grand Tasting Pavilion where I got pampered with over a dozen of their featured Australian wines at the festival including several from Mosquito Hill and Tim Adams. From France, a total of 300 chateaus were featured at the festival including a large number from Bordeaux. It made me miss Bordeaux and reminded me of my night at the train station!


I got to try some really sweet wines from Bordeaux. Plus we got to sit in at a wine tasting session of two Bordeaux wines. I wonder how much wine I had that night? The organizers were very particular about reminding visitors that if you drink, don't drive. Anyway, I was taking the MTR back to the hotel.

The food was also quite good with some Michelin-starred chefs from Hong Kong and France preparing some of their award-winning dishes and delicacies. Too bad my food and wine tokens ran out since I still wanted more!

Adelaide Cellardoor
Room 801, 8/F Tai Yau Building
181 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK
+852 2526 0151

Manila: Galeon Andalucia arrives at Pier 13

The Galeon Andalucia, a replica of the 17th century Spanish galleon, arrived in Manila this morning as part of Dia del Galeon celebrations. I was at Pier 13 as the galleon entered the port and docked. It looked quite majestic as it entered the breakwater. We were among the first to board the galleon together with the entourage of the Spanish Ambassador Luis Arias Romero, Manila Mayor Alfredo Lim and HCS President Gemma Cruz Araneta.


From October 7 to 8, 2010, the public may visit Galeon Andalucia at Pier 13, which is behind Manila Hotel, from 8 a.m. to 12 noon and 1 to 4 p.m. On October 9, 2010, the galleon will accept visitors only from 8 a.m. to 12 noon. Its next port of call is Cebu City.

There is no need for reservations for individuals and groups with less than 30 people. Big groups will have to reserve with the organizers and are only allowed to board in the morning. Take note however that children under eight years old are not allowed due to safety reasons. While children under twelve need to be chaperoned.


Since the capacity of the boat is 100 persons at a time, entrance is on a first-come first-served basis. And guests have to queue in line. So expect some waiting time. Some walking will be required from the registration to the boat.

There will be a waiting area where guests can view an exhibit, mural paintings and information on the Galleon Trade. Also, there will be a creative trade fair selling indigenous arts and crafts, and items from around the world. There is no ample parking at the pier, so you might have to park at the Quirino Grandstand and walk. Better to take a cab or bring a driver.

For inquiries and reservations, e-mail Abi Portillo at diadelgaleon@yahoo.com.

Update (10/11/2010): Galleon Andalucia will be arriving in Cebu on October 13, 2010. Details to follow.

Camarines Sur: Peñafrancia Military Parade & festivities at the Naga Cathedral

The day before the Peñafrancia Fluvial Procession, a Military Parade is held around downtown Naga City to honor Our Lady of Peñafrancia. Participants of the Military Parade include C.A.T. and R.O.T.C. units from the different high schools, colleges and universities of the Bicol Region.


I didn't expect to see over a hundred contingents in the parade which lasted over five hours! Each contingent was led by its cadet officers followed by a bevy of majorettes and a marching band. Then at the end are at least two platoons of cadets, one male and one female, in very colorful and snappy uniforms! I most definitely enjoyed the pomp and pageantry of the Peñafrancia Military Parade.



There were so many contingents, we decided not to finish watching the entire parade since the heat started to get unbearable. I could imagine what these young students had to endure to participate in this parade.


From Rizal Park, where we spent the whole morning watching the parade go by, we proceeded to the Naga Metropolitan Cathedral to see what was going on there. The image of Our Lady of Peñafrañcia was currently enshrined in the main altar of the Cathedral. After the Translacion Procession transfers the image of the Our Lady of Peñafrancia and Divino Rostro from the Peñafrancia Shrine to the Cathedral, all activities of the festival are centered at the Cathedral.



When we arrived at the Cathedral, a contingent from the Armed Forces of the Philippines had just completed a military drill in the church patio to honor Our Lady of Peñafrancia. After the military drill, students from Ateneo de Naga filled-up the entire patio and performed a dance of praise to Ina.



I noticed the line of devotees who wanted to get close and touch the image of Our Lady of Peñafrancia was starting to get really long. In fact, when I returned later in the evening, it stretched all the way to the gates of the Cathedral, testament to the strong devotion of Bicolanos to Ina. In the evening, a band from the AFP held a concert at the patio.


Since this year is the tercentenary of the devotion to Our Lady of Peñafrancia, the Archdiocese of Nueva Caceres erected a massive arch to commemorate this momentous event. The arch is called the Porta Mariae and is no doubt Naga City's newest landmark.