Indonesia: Lake Toba, Samosir Island and the Batak people

I've heard so much about Lake Toba (Danau Toba) in North Sumatra, Indonesia, the largest volcanic lake in the world. To give you perspective, it's more than twice the size of Singapore. But I didn't realize finding out how to get to Lake Toba from Medan was not going to be easy.

I was expecting there would be frequent tours to Lake Toba leaving from Medan. Bus after asking around at many local travel agencies (they mainly sell flights and outbound tours), I found out there were no tours and the best you could get from them was to hire a private vehicle, cost starting at Rp600,000 if you are lucky. But at least one gave me advice on how to get there on my own.

Getting to Lake Toba by bus from Medan
Regular and frequent bus trips leave the Amplas Terminal for Parapat, a resort town on the shores of Lake Toba. There are scheduled VIP or deluxe buses, as well as vans trips that cost up to Rp150,000. But more frequent and much cheaper are the non-aircon buses that cost between Rp32,000 to 35,000 for the five-hour bus ride. Just tell your angkot driver you want to go to Parapat and they'd point you to the bus. I ended up taking the non-aircon bus for Parapat that left at about 6:30 a.m. and arrived at 11:30 a.m. just in time for lunch.

There are a lot of hotels, resort and budget accommodation in Parapat. I was easily able to find one that fit my budget, maybe because it was a weekday. After settling down and a late lunch, I walked to the Tigaraja Pier to catch a ferry to Samosir Island.

What to see in Lake Toba
One of the main attractions of Lake Toba is Samosir Island, which is home to the Batak people. From the Tigaraja Pier in Parapat, there are ferry services to Tuk-Tuk and Tomok on Samosir Island.

Trips from Tigaraja to Tuk-Tuk start at 8:30 a.m. with the last one leaving Tigaraja at 7:00 p.m. While trips from Tuk-Tuk to Tigaraja start at 7:00 a.m. with the last one leaving Tuk-Tuk at 5:30 p.m. Trips from Tigaraja to Tomok on the other hand start at 7:00 a.m. with the last one leaving Tigaraja at 7 p.m. While trips from Tomok to Tigaraja start at 6:30 a.m. with the last one leaving Tomok at 6:30 p.m. I spent Rp10,000 for the ferry ride from Tigaraja to Tuk-Tuk.

At Tuk-Tuk, I hired a motorcycle driver to take me around the different cultural attractions. We made two stops. The first one was the Tomb of King Sidabutar. King Sidabutar, Raja di Huta was ruler of the Batak village of Tomok. Legend also says he was the first settler on Samosir Island.

From Tomok, we proceeded to Huta Siallagan in Ambarita Village. Along the way were views of verdant green rice fields and hills behind the. Samosir is quite large, you forget that you are on an island within a lake.

In Huta Siallagan, there are several Batak houses in the compound plus stone chairs carved from volcanic rock which was where King Siallagan and his council governed the village and decided the fate of criminals.

Greeting us at the gate were figures carved from volcanic stone. Huta Siallagan is a fantastic example of a traditional Batak village, definitely among the places you have to see when visiting Samosir Island.

We arrived in Tuk-Tuk just in time for the 5:30 p.m. ferry back to Tigaraja. Samosir Island also has a lot of accommodation options for all budgets. Many visitors opt to stay here for a night or two and explore the rest of the island or proceed to other towns along the shores of Danau Toba. One of the resorts I particularly found charming was the Silintong Hotel in Tuk-Tuk (silintong_hotel@yahoo.com; 0625 451242) which I would have enjoyed staying at if I had the time.

Indonesia: Eating in Medan

Medan, Indonesia is know among locals for its food because of the many different cuisines available there. Among the ethnic groups represented in Medan are the Malay, Acehnese, Javanese, Batak, Minangkabau (Padang/West Sumatra), Chinese, Southern Indians and Northern Indians among others, each with their own unique cuisine. So although not as popular as other Indonesian tourism destinations, Medan is one great place for food tourism. Here are some of the dishes I got to try during my tip to Medan. And it's definitely just the tip of the iceberg.

You will find many Masakan Padang at Padang-style eateries and restaurants, with Nasi Padang dishes on display on high stacked-plates in glass-covered food carts or restaurant windows. Padang is capital of the neighboring province of West Sumatra (Sumatera Barat). A popular dish they serve is Ikan Bakar, a generic term for grilled fish or seafood, which can be prepared in many ways and various flavors. At the restaurant I had lunch at, you could order on for take-away, with rice, vegetables and sauces, packed in a banana leaf and brown paper.

For lunch, it was Ayam Goreng, a generic term for chicken deep-fried in coconut oil. But Padang-style Ayam Goreng has spicy granules. It's served with vegetables, rice, sambal belacan (chili) and tempe goreng (chips). I opted to add deep-fried tahu (tofu) with chili sauce to complete my lunch.

In Parapat, I had more Padang dishes including Beef Rendang, beef chunks stewed in coconut milk and chili gravy until dry. With it, I had Telur Dudur Padang (Padang-style omelette) and Daun Singkong (cassava leaves in soup.

Back in Medan, I was craving for satay. Too bad the stall beside my hotel selling Sate Padang (in thick yellow sauce) was closed that day. So I got introduced to Acehnese cuisine through Sate Matang, served with peanut sauce.

With it, I had Martabak Telur (savory egg pancake) topped with pickled onions and chili. For dessert, I had Roti Cane, a sweet version of Roti Canai served with sugar on top instead of curry on the side.

The next day, I tried the Mie Aceh (spicy Aceh-style fried egg noodles) at another stall near the hotel.

Of course, because North Sumatra has a lot of durian plantations, you have to try the durian! Beside my hotel is Ucok Durian, a popular durian supplier which is open 24/7!

But then again, those were just a few dishes. And there were thousands of others to choose from! So take your pick and food trip in Medan, Indonesia if you get the chance. Here are some helpful tips about Medan and its attractions if you do decide to visit.

Indonesia: What to see in Medan & North Sumatra

So I decided to fly to Medan to cross out Sumatra from my list of places to visit. Medan is the capital of North Sumatra (Sumatera Utara). The main attraction of North Sumatra is Lake Toba, a five-hour land trip from Medan. But the city has some interesting heritage buildings and is a melting pot of different cuisines making it a very popular food tourism destination.

Bus to Medan from Kualanamu International Airport (KNO)
The new Kualanamu International Airport is about 40 kilometers from Medan. There are many ways to get to Medan from the airport. The cheapest way is by taking the Damri Airport Bus which costs Rp10,000 to the Amplas Terminal (which is far from the city center) and Rp15,000 to the downtown area.

From Amplas, you can take an angkot (public minivan) to the downtown area, about Rp6,000. Angkots have route numbers on them. So make sure to ask your hotel what angkot number to take from Amplas and where to get off. Note though that it can get really tight and uncomfortable. So it's not a good idea if you have lots of luggage. Buses out of Medan also leave from Amplas. So if you are going to Lake Toba, you can take a bus to Parapat directly from Amplas.

If you take the Damri bus all the way to the downtown area, find out which stop is closest to your hotel. You can hire a becak (trishaw); but knowing you just came from the airport, they'll try to charge you as much as they can. But it shouldn't cost more than Rp15,000 to Rp20,000.

The fastest way from Kualanamu to Medan is by train. It will take about 45 minutes and costs Rp80,000. That will depend of course if there is a train leaving when you exit the airport (wait is between 1 to 2 hours between trips). The most convenient way is of course by taxi. But that will set you back by at least Rp150,000.

What to see in Medan
Unfortunately, most people you'll encounter in Medan don't speak English. So it's quite difficult to communicate. A Bahasa Indonesia phrasebook may come in handy. Since there are just a few attractions in the city, getting around can be easy if you know what angkut number passes by them. You can also haggle with a becak to take you to them (difficult to bargain with them though if you can't speak the language since they know you are a tourist) or take a Blue Bird taxi for comfort.

The major attractions are the Masjid Raya Al-Mashun and Istana Maimun (Maimun Palace). Masjid Raya Al-Mashun is definitely a landmark of Medan and the largest mosque in North Sumatra. It was built by Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid from 1906 to 1909. Designed by Dutch architects (initially by van Erp; but work was continued by A.J. Dingemans), many of the materials were imported including chandeliers from France, tiles from Italy and stained glass windows from China.

The main dome has an octagonal floor plan. There are four domed wings attached to the main building and four arched hallways connecting the wings. Architectural influences from both Europe and the Middle East are evident.

Outside the mosque is a cemetery where many members of the royal family are buried. A minaret stands proudly in one corner of the property, where calls to prayer echo from loud speakers attached to the top.

Note that shorts are not allowed inside the mosque. You will be asked to wear a sarong. Mandatory contributions for visitors are requested when you register at the gate, usually between Rp5,000 to Rp20,000. And you will also be asked to contribute to the shoe deposit when you take off your shoes or slippers as you enter the main building.

The Istana Maimun (Maimoon Palace) was the royal palace of the Sultanate of Deli and built by Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid (Tuangku Ma'moen Al Rasyid) in 1888. Just like the mosque, the mix of architectural styles (Malay, Dutch, Turkish, Spanish, etc.) is very evident.

Although the current sultan no longer wields political power, he still lives in the palace. But visitors are allowed to explore the throne room. There's a Rp5,000 fee to enter. Inside, you can also dress like the sultan and the royal family. Rental fee for the baju is Rp10,000.

Another attraction I got to visit is the Kuil Shri Mariamman (Shri Mariamman Temple), a Hindu temple built in 1884. One heritage landmark I missed was the Tjong A Fie Mansion which has many similarities to Penang's Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion.

Now time to find out what to eat in Medan, Indonesia!

Thank you 2013! Where in the world was I last year?

It's fantastic thinking how much of the planet we've covered in the past twelve months. I've actually decided to slow it down a bit this year. But to welcome the New Year, here are highlights from international destinations I visited in 16 countries in 2013. It was quite difficult to remember every city I visited. But thanks to Instagram @ivanhenares, it's all there!

In January, I led a tour group to Hanoi, Halong Bay and Tam Coc, Vietnam in pleasantly cool weather. Don't we all love that boat ride through the limestone karst formations of Halong Bay?

February saw me back in Thailand with my UP AIT students. We explored Bangkok and visited the ancient city of Ayutthaya.

I visited a new continent in the Summer of 2013 ― South America! My trip started in the US; stayed in Washington, DC for a week and visited a classmate in Baltimore, MD. Then I was off to Rio de Janeiro with tokayo Ivan Man Dy for our five-week South American adventure.

Rio is a charming city! We made sure to visit its famed urban beaches such as Copacabana and Ipanema, and took a tram ride up Cristo Redentor where we were afforded a spectacular view of the city, Sugarloaf Mountain and Guanabara Bay.

From Rio de Janeiro, we took a bus to São Paolo and then to Porto Alegre before crossing the border to Uruguay. Yes, it's the country famous for legalizing marijuana this year! In Uruguay, we walked the charming streets of Montevideo with its fantastic architecture, ate a sumptuous steak at the local market, and then visited old Colonia del Sacramento before taking a ferry to Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Of course, like every visitor to Buenos Aires, we payed our respects to Evita at the Recoleta Cemetery and enjoyed the street tango at San Telmo.

The next day, we took an overnight bus and visited the Jesuit Block of Cordoba and the estancias of Alta Gracia, Jesús María and Santa Catalina. We found out that Alta Gracia is where Che Guevara grew up. His family house has been converted into a museum.

From Cordoba, we took a bus to Mendoza, and from there took another bus that crossed the Andes and the border, and finally to Santiago, Chile. After spending a night in Santiago, we moved to neighboring Valparaiso and spent two nights there before taking a 24-hour bus to San Pedro de Atacama to experience nature at its finest.

We visited the altiplano of the Antofagasta Region at the heart of the Atacama Desert and its sites such as Los Flamencos National Reserve, Laguna Miscanti, Laguna Miñiques, Salar de Atacama, Valle de la Luna, Valle de la Muerte and the Géisers de Tatio.

After exploring the driest place on the planet, we hopped on another long bus ride to Arica, the border town of Chile, crossed the border by taxi to Tacna, Peru's border town, and took a bus to Arequipa from there.

We had a few hours in charming Arequipa before taking off on another long bus ride to Cuzco. We spent several days there, highlighted by our visit to Machu Picchu. Cuzco is such a historic city with a colorful local culture.

So many long-distance bus rides in Peru! And we weren't done yet! From Cuzco, we traveled by bus for a day to the capital Lima. It's Plaza Mayor is stunning! Lest we forget, Lima was the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru, which for a time covered most of South America. We also got to watch the changing of the guard at the Government Palace of Peru.

We then took a bus back to Arequipa (yes, another long bus ride) where we hopped on another bus to Puno, the gateway to Lake Titicaca.

From Puno, we crossed the border into Bolivia and stopped by Copacabana where we were lucky to witness the festivities of the Señor de la Santa Cruz de Colquepata. It wasn't easy finding a place to stay though because of the fiesta, and it wasn't cheap! But it was well worth it. We explored Lake Titicaca again the next day.

From Copacabana, we went to La Paz, explored the highest capital city in the world and shopped at the Witches Market before visiting Sucre and Potosi. We made an exciting border crossing into Argentina, a story we'll keep a secret!

In Argentina, we visited Salta and from there took a long-distance bus to Iguazu Falls, more than a day if I remember it right. It was raining really hard, but we got to ride a speed boat that took us under one of the falls. We crossed over to the Brazilian side where the better views are, before rushing back to Rio de Janeiro to catch our flight back to the US. I spent the next few days recuperating in DC, except for a one-day visit to the wineries around Aldie, Virginia where I got to enjoy basted pork ribs slow-grilled over hickory wood at a roadside grill. Yum!

May ended with a tour to Siem Reap, Cambodia to visit the famed temples of Angkor. When the group left, I hired a car and visited Preah Vihear, a spectacular temple built on top of a mountain. Visit it while you can and before the crowds discover it!

In June, I was back in Bali leading a tour group. We visited its famed temples and experienced its colorful culture. After the tour, I visited the Jatiluwih Rice terraces.

In August, we had another tour group, this time to Nepal. We stopped over at KL before flying to Kathmandu. We visited Nagarkot, Pokhara and Kathmandu Valley. Pokhara was an exciting destination with many activities. I went paragliding for the first time.

Aside from Kathmandu, I also got to visit Bhaktapur and Patan. Bhaktapur is my favorite!

The month ended with a trip to India hosted by Jet Airways. The group visited New Delhi, Agra and flew to Kashmir. Our itinerary included Srinagar, Gulmarg and Sonamarg. Indeed the place is Heaven on Earth!

I definitely enjoyed the pony ride to the Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley, the great food and the colorful culture of the region. We also got to stay in the luxurious houseboats of Dal Lake.

In September, I led UP AIT students and staff to a food and heritage experience in Penang and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Everyone was still talking about the food when we got back!

We attended the 2013 Annual Meeting of the ICOMOS International Cultural Tourism Committee in Sukhothai and Chiang Mai, Thailand in October. As part of a workshop to help Sukhothai with its tourism master plan, I biked thirty kilometers through rural areas, to the Si Satchanalai Historical Park. I haven't biked in a long while, but I survived that one!

After the meeting, we explored Chiang Rai, crossed the river border at Chiang Kong, Thailand to Houai Xai. Laos. And from there, it was a grueling overnight bus to Luang Prabang, the old royal capital. Luang Prabang is still as charming as every with its colorful temples, colonial architecture and delicious street food!

I got explore Vientiane, met up with my SSEAYP friends and explored the city's temples, before going by land to Udon Thani for my flight back to Bangkok.

I could not believe it, but I was back in Bangkok, and stranded for a week in November, experiencing my first flight cancelation ever! So I spent my time working (and eating). My only out of town trip was a visit to Nakhon Pathom's Phra Pathom Chedi and Sanam Chandra Palace.

My last international trip for the year was to China to attend the Asia 21 Young Leaders Summit in Zhenjiang. But because of the smog problem in Shanghai, I had to deal with two flight cancelations (I was on a roll), rerouting to Xiamen were I took a flight to Shanghai, and a bullet train to Zhenjiang before arriving at the summit.

I went around Shanghai for a day (I was planning to see Suzhou but the smog was bad) before flying back to Manila.

So there! That was 2013! Happy New Year to all! Here are more photos from my 2013 trips. Next up is my post for Philippine destinations.

Do you want to see last year's? Now where in the world was I in 2012?