Batanes: Around Mahatao, Ivana and Uyugan, Batanes

We did our usual afternoon trip around the southern part of Batan Island yesterday. That includes the towns of Mahatao, Ivana and Uyugan. One of my favorite heritage stops along the way is the Mahatao Church (dedicated to San Carlos Borromeo), which is a National Cultural Treasure.

I was pleasantly surprised to see an old lady wearing a vacul close to the church. For the longest time, seeing someone actually wear a vacul has eluded me in all my visits to Batanes until now. She was very gracious to the group for allowing everyone to take her photo and have their photo taken with her.


Our next stop was Ivana. Another popular stop is the House of Dakay (built in the maytuab style). Said to be the oldest stone house that is still in use in Batanes, it dates back to 1860. Its lone occupant, Florestida Estrella, is now 83.

Other stops in Ivana include Honesty Cafe and the Ivana Church. We were told that Ivana, Batanes is the smallest municipality in the entire country, both in population (1,181 in 2007) and land area (16.54 square kilometers). So unless anyone disputes that, I'll accept it as fact.


We then drove by Uyugan before proceeding back to Mahatao via the Racuh a Payaman (also known as Marloboro Country) where the group enjoyed the sunset. Racuh a Payaman means wide pasture. According to the Batanes Provincial Government, this communal pasture collectively managed by the townsfolk depicts a people that values community ownership over private property. It adds that the beauty of Racuh is as awe-inspiring as the concept that it represents: that collective management is best where land space is limited.

The skies were overcast when we arrived in the morning. But the sun thankfully came out later in the afternoon. But despite the sun, the weather was pleasantly cool. Indeed, it was a welcome relief from Manila's scorching hot weather!

Batanes: Around Mahatao, Ivana and Uyugan

I was in Batanes again last May for the Ultimate Philippines tour of the northernmost province of the country. As soon as our SEAIR flight landed in Basco, we went straight to Fundacion Pacita where we were going to stay for the next four days.

For the first day, we toured Batan Island, particularly the towns outside Basco. Just last November, I also did the same tour. So for more details about the places we visited, read Marlboro Country, Mahatao Church and more from Batan Island.

Our first stop was the Mahatao Church, a National Cultural Treasure. According to the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA), “ The church was built in the 19th century by the Dominicans and characterized by a stone structure in the courtyard used to house the beaterio, a local institution to assist in the work of the church. Elsewhere in the churchyard are stone monuments used perhaps as guiding lights for fishermen. The entire site gives a good idea of the simplicity of missionary life (as a counter-balance to the ‘baroque’ sensitiveness of more affluent areas).”

We then dropped by Ivana to visit the Ivana Church, Honesty Café where people pay for drinks and snacks they consume by honesty system since the store is unmanned, and the House of Dakay, said to be the oldest stone house in the town. The group got to meet its lone inhabitant, Lola Florestida Estrella who warmly welcomes visitors into her humble home.

The group then had a lunch picnic by the sea in Uyugan. I'll talk about all the great Ivatan food we ate during the whole tour in another post.

Passing through Uyugan town, we got to see the ruins of Songsong (a barangay destroyed by a tsunami in 1953), old stone houses in Barangay Itbud and the poblacion of Uyugan, and spectacular views of waves crashing on the jagged Batanes cliffs in Dekey a Kanayan.

The last stop of the group before proceeding back to the inn was Rakuh a Payaman commonly known as Marlboro Country. It’s one of the best views in Batanes, with cows and carabaos grazing, rolling hills, waves crashing on the shore, with a view of another quaint lighthouse built in the distinct Batanes style. In the evening, we had more Ivatan fare at Therese's Restaurant.

Part 2: Batanes adventure: Chavayan, Savidug, Nakabuang Beach and more from Sabtang
Part 3: Batanes adventure: Valugan Beach, Vayang, Nakamaya Burial Grounds, Diura Fishing Village and Naidi Hill

Related entries
Batanes, undiscovered paradise up north
Marlboro Country, Mahatao Church and more from Batan Island
Batanes stone houses in Savidug and Chavayan, Nakabuang Beach and more from Sabtang Island
Batanes hotels and restaurants plus exploring Batanes by bike

Batanes: Marlboro Country, Mahatao Church and more from Batan Island

We enjoyed our tour around Basco in the morning and were looking forward to our afternoon tour of the rest of Batan Island. After lunch, we had time to take a quick nap before our driver passed by for us at the hotel for the tour. Make sure you ask your guide to stopover at Mahatao Church which is a National Cultural Treasure.

According to the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA), “ The church was built in the 19th century by the Dominicans and characterized by a stone structure in the courtyard used to house the beaterio, a local institution to assist in the work of the church. Elsewhere in the churchyard are stone monuments used perhaps as guiding lights for fishermen. The entire site gives a good idea of the simplicity of missionary life (as a counter-balance to the ‘baroque’ sensitiveness of more affluent areas).”

A staple of these island tours of Batan is Rakuh a Payaman commonly known as Marlboro Country. It’s one of the best views in Batanes, with cows and carabaos grazing, rolling hills, waves crashing on the shore, with a view of another quaint lighthouse built in the distinct Batanes style. I could imagine how charming and romantic it would be to organize a picnic here. One could stay here the whole day just thinking about nothing, savor the scenery and pass the time away.

There are more stopovers in Uyugan town, of views of waves crashing on the jagged Batanes cliffs in Dekey a Kanayan, of old stone houses in Barangay Itbud and the poblacion of Uyugan. The next town, Ivana, is home to the very popular Honesty Café where people pay for drinks and snacks they consume on an honesty system since the store is unmanned. Another popular stop in the town is the House of Dakay, said to be the oldest stone house in the town. You’ll get to meet its lone inhabitant, Lola Florestida Estrella who warmly welcomes visitors into her humble home.

We were lucky to meet former Education secretary Butch Abad on the plane to Basco and he had extended to us an invitation to visit his late sister’s former studio, Fundacion Pacita, which had been converted into a wonderful bed and breakfast in, no doubt, the classiest and most charming accommodation in Batanes.

At PHP7500 a night for a regular room, you’ll never go wrong with its breathtaking views worth dying for especially when you wake up in the mornings. They even have a honeymoon suite for lovebirds looking for a romantic vacation in picturesque Batanes. But be sure to book early since I was told bookings for summer were already in as early as November!

We had dinner and called it a night early since we had to wake up the next day for our trip to Sabtang.

Fundacion Pacita Batanes Nature Lodge
(0917) 7958153

Part 1: Batanes, undiscovered paradise up north
Part 3: Batanes stone houses in Savidug and Chavayan, Nakabuang Beach and more from Sabtang Island
Part 4: Batanes hotels and restaurants plus exploring Batanes by bike