Chio Sai Siong Hong Kong Temple 石狮城皇公廟 in Manila Chinatown

Chinese New Year celebrations in Manila Chinatown have become extremely crowded, commercial, and in a way, adulterated – with the unwelcome aswangs, drag queens and ati-atihan groups going around and asking for money (they are obviously out of place); sometimes, I lose motivation to experience the festivities. But I was pleasantly surprised that outside Chinese New Year, there are other colorful celebrations in Binondo, Manila, such as temple feasts, if you know when and where to look for them (dates change with the lunar calendar too).

One of them is at the Chio Sai Siong Hong Kong Temple 石狮城皇公廟 where they celebrate annually the "birthday" of the Taoist deity Siong Hong Kong 城皇公, whose devotion originates from Chio Sai or Shishi City in Fujian, China. I realized San Fernando, Pampanga also has its own Jeosay Shinhongkong Temple meaning the forebearers who brought the images to the Philippines may have come from the same hometown.

So on Araw ng Maynila (good thing it was a holiday, no traffic), we were in Binondo first thing in the morning to watch a colorful procession leave the temple, go through the streets of Binondo and Santa Cruz, and return to the temple on Tomas Pinpin Street. It had all the makings of a community celebration without any trace of commercial advertising. Rather than brave the crowds on Chinese New Year, fight for space to watch the lion and dragon dances, or jostle for limited seats in our favorite restaurants, this was perfect! No tourists taking selfies here!

Fireworks announced the start of the procession. It was led by the temple banners, followed by the first carroza (yes, a Catholic carroza borrowed from the Binondo Church) with several Taoist deities with sampaguita leis. The drum and lyre band of Philippine Sun Yat Sen High School came after. It was quite amusing hearing the band play "Happy Birthday" every now and then for Siong Hong Kong.

Performing in the middle of the procession were lion and dragon dances.

Devotees bearing on their shoulders the century-old image of Santo Siong Hong Kong 城皇公 on a small wooden platform then followed. Everyone was in red!

At the end of the procession was yet another Catholic carroza with two Taoist deities, one of them Hu Din Ma. You could definitely see the fusion between different cultures here in the Philippines.

Back at the temple, the images were brought inside one by one beginning with Siong Hong Kong. They seemed to follow a particular order of entrance into the temple. Candies and coins were thrown for good luck. And the community partook of cha mi sua or misua guisado once the ceremonies were over.

Thank you to Ivan Man Dy of Old Manila Walks for letting me know about this! Since the celebration follows the lunar calendar, dates vary every year.

Binondo Chinatown late night food trip at a discount!

Late night food tripping in Binondo Chinatown can be really fun! Not many people know that a number of restaurants drop prices for selected dishes usually after 9 p.m. Just ask the restaurant if they have a late night promo.

The other month, we made a dim sum stop at Wan Chai Tea House. All dim sum (except the Hakaw) sells for Php47 per serving after 9 p.m. We had Pork Spareribs, Siomai, Goto Curry and Pipa Tofu.

Several years ago, we tried the late night shabu-shabu at Golden Fortune Seafood Restaurant offered with a hefty discount depending on the ingredient. Also check out the dim sum at King Chef at Lucky Chinatown Mall. Yes, it's happy hour for Chinatown treats! I'm getting hungry! Time to head out to Binondo!

Philippine Registry of Cultural Property (PRECUP) updated 01/28/2014

Two days ago, I updated the Philippine Registry of Cultural Property (PRECUP) with declarations of the National Museum in 2012 and 2013. Today, I got a copy of declarations of the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) during the same period. The NHCP declared five sites in 2012 and four sites in 2013.

The following were declared National Historical Landmarks or Pambansang Palatandaang Makasaysayan: Manila Central Post Office Building and Liwasang Bonifacio in Manila (Res. No. 1, S. 2012); Fort Pikit in Pikit, Cotabato (Res. No. 7, S. 2012); Crash Site of Mt. Pinatubo (the plane carrying President Ramon Magsaysay) in Mt. Manunggal, Cebu (Res. No. 8, S. 2012); Manila Bay and Waterfront (from Del Pan Bridge to the CCP) in Manila (Res. No. 19, S. 2012); Capul Lighthouse in Capul, Northern Samar (Res. No. 12, S. 2013); Saint Joseph Parish Church Complex in Las Pinas City (Res. No. 8, S. 2013); and the Zapote Battlefield and Zapote Bridge in Las Pinas City (Res. No. 11, 2. 2013).

The Resting Place of the Remains of Melchora "Tandang Sora" Aquino in Banlat, Quezon City was declared a National Shrine (Res. No. 4, S. 2012) and the Rizal National Monument in Manila, was re-declared a National Monument (Res. No. 8, S. 2013).

Also check out the declarations of the National Museum in 2012 and 2013.

Philippine Registry of Cultural Property (PRECUP) updated 01/26/2014

It's been quite a while since I updated the Philippine Registry of Cultural Property (PRECUP). I'm adding declarations made by the National Museum in 2012 and 2013, including Bohol churches declared after they were damaged by the 7.2 magnitude earthquake that hit Bohol on October 13, 2013.

Newly-declared National Cultural Treasures (Category I) include the Santo Domingo Church Complex and its Liturgical Objects in Sta. Mesa Heights, Quezon City (10/04/2012); the Twin Forts of Romblon: Fuerza de San Andres and Fuerza de Santiago in Romblon, Romblon (03/19/2013); the Parish Church of the Holy Trinity in Loay, Bohol, also a National Historical Landmark (10/22/2013); the Parish Church of the Santo Niño in Cortes, Bohol (10/22/2013); and the Motto Stella or Rizal Monument in Rizal Park, Manila (12/30/2013).

Both Bohol churches sustained heavy damage during the earthquake and were set for declaration when the earthquake struck. The declarations went ahead to allow the government to fund the restoration of the churches.

Three National Cultural Treasures were completely destroyed during the earthquake, namely the Nuestra Señora de la Luz Parish Church Complex in Loon, Bohol, the Parish Church of the Holy Cross in Maribojoc, Bohol and the Balilihan Watchtower. The Balilihan Watchtower will be reconstructed. But it may be impossible to restore the two churches. This may lead to delisting in the future after undergoing the proper processes.

Several Important Cultural Properties (Category II) were also declared namely the Old Municipal Building of Angeles City, Pampanga (06/12/2012); the Mauban Public Bath in Mauban, Quezon (07/14/2012); the Old Provincial Building in Tagbilaran City, Bohol (07/22/2012); the Spanish Colonial Era Municipal Building, Traida de Aguas and Bridges in Romblon, Romblon (03/19/2013); the Guyangan Cave System in Banton Island, Romblon (03/19/2013); Casa de San Fernando in San Fernando, Sibuyan Island, Romblon (03/20/2013); the Saint Augustine Parish Church in Lubao, Pampanga (10/28/2013); and the Parish Church of Santa Monica in Alburquerque, Bohol (10/22/2013).

A new category was created namely Significant Cultural Properties (Category III). The National Historical Commission of the Philippines has turned over the declaration of Heritage Houses to the National Museum. And these may fall under any of the three categories depending on their significance. The Category III structures include the Mauban Seawall in Mauban, Quezon (07/02/2013); the Chanuangco Sunico House in Binondo, Manila (08/05/2013); the St. John the Baptist Church in Garcia Hernandez, Bohol (09/27/2013); the First United Building or Perez-Samanillo Building in Escolta, Manila (10/23/2013); and the Holy Infant Parish Church, Complex and Convent in Valencia, Bohol (11/04/2013).

For the first quarter of this year, several declarations are going to be made including the Capul Church in Northern Samar; Gota de Leche in Sampaloc, Manila; the Lopez House in Balayan, Batangas; Colonial Period Lighthouses (a blanket declaration for all Spanish and American colonial period lighthouses) and the Mural Paintings of the Paete Church in Laguna. We will report the official designations as soon as the declarations are made.

We also encourage everyone to write the National Museum to request for declarations in your own communities. Bohol has been very active in writing the National Museum for declarations, which explains why it has had many declarations in the past few years.

Manila: Chinatown food trip & staycation in Binondo

Who would have thought a staycation in Manila was a viable option? We got to experience one during Chinese New Year at Ramada Manila Central in Binondo where we spent the night before the Lunar New Year. It was a very convenient way of enjoying Manila Chinatown cuisine and the festivities the next day within walking distance from where we were staying.

In fact, as soon as we were done checking-in at the hotel, we went straight for dim sum at President Tea House. Restaurants were full that night since it was the bisperas and we had to queue. But it was well worth the wait as we enjoyed some really good Tsinoy food.

To get rid of the obvious weight gain from the sumptuous food, we walked around Binondo's interesting streets (which are very quiet on a normal night) and visited some of its hidden temples. I say hidden because most of them are located on the roof tops of buildings, such as the Te Ah Kong (Teyakong) Temple, a Taoist temple located near the corner of Ongpin and Kipuja Streets. Another interesting temple nearby is the Shi Ong Hu Temple along T. Alonzo Street, a Buddhist temple which occupies at least two floors of the building where it is located.

We were back at Ramada Manila Central before midnight and watched the fireworks from our hotel room window. The next day, we visited the roof deck bar of the hotel to see the view of Binondo from above. Ongpin was alive and crowded with so many visitors enjoying the festivities. Later in the morning, we got to watch the lion dance hired by the hotel before moving around.

Lunch was at Xiao Chun Yuan Restaurant near the corner of Ongpin and S. Padilla (Gandara) Streets. We tried out their Oyster Cake, Mapo Tofu, Polonchay and Pork Mushroom, another hearty Chinatown meal! For the afternoon, since it was a bit hot, we went back to the hotel to take a nap. Anyway, most of the dance troupes were resting as well.

By late afternoon, all the troupes were out again. Aside from the lion dances, we also got to see colorful dragon dance troupes. Unfortunately, the out of place freak shows were making their appearances as well, trying to compete for attention with the genuine lion and dragon dance troupes that are an inherent part of the celebration. These outsiders should be reminded that it isn't Ati-Atihan, nor was it a Pride March, or even Halloween (poor business owners were trying to shoo away people dressed as aswangs dancing in front of their establishments since to them, they are malas or symbols of bad luck). These outsider groups, mostly drag queens, fire eaters and fiesta drummers, were obviously there for the money. So at the very least, they should have matched their acts with the occasion which was Chinese New Year. And visitors should stop giving them money so as not to encourage them to come back again next year. But at least I noticed more lion dance troupes this year which was a good sign.

The main reason we went out was to get some Fried Siopao from Ching Hong Foods along Benavidez Street.  We got there just in time since a new batch was about ready for serving and this sumptuous snack is sold out before you know it.

We actually so enjoyed our stay at the hotel so much because of the convenience that we decided to extend for another night to experience more of Chinatown. Dinner was at the Royale Sharksfin Seafood Restaurant (no we did not have sharks fin and I hope they don't serve it), which according to my tokayo, Mr. Old Manila Walks, is one of the best restaurants in Binondo. We were not disappointed.

Before calling it a night, the two Ivans got a foot massage at the spa located at the first floor of the hotel, a perfect way to end the night, especially for Ivan Man Dy, who had been touring people around Manila Chinatown the whole day. It may not be as festive on other days, but Binondo is worth a staycation any day of the year if only for the food!

Where to stay in Binondo, Manila
Ramada Manila Central, a Wyndham hotel, is conveniently located at the corner of Ongpin and Quintin Paredes Streets, beside Binondo Church. Rooms are cozy and comfortable. And its location makes exploring Binondo even easier.

Telephone: +63 (2) 5886688 / 3544151
Fax: +63 (2) 3544152
E-mail: reservations@ramadamanilacentral.com

Save Metro Manila's open spaces! We need more green zones and public parks!

We were meeting high up a building in Mandaluyong City this afternoon. It's a view I'm quite familiar with. And I've always thought of the "what ifs" every time we meet there since one gets a different perspective of Metro Manila, the full picture if I may say, with views from high above. In front of us was the Wack-Wack Golf and Country Club. Behind us was the National Center for Mental Health. What do they have in common? They are among the last remaining lungs of Metro Manila.

Wack-Wack Golf and Country Club

I just realized that many of the few remaining open spaces in Metro Manila are private golf courses and old government facilities. But one thing is certain, we definitely need a public central park!

Quezon City Central Park (Satellite image from Google Maps)

Maybe it's possible in Quezon City where Ninoy Aquino Parks and Wildlife Center (NAPWC), Veterans Memorial Center (VMC), Quezon Memorial Circle (QMC), parts of UP Diliman and LWUA Balara Complex can be connected to form a superpark or greenbelt of sorts. We need more superparks and not supermalls don't you think?

When we were being consulted by the office of QC Vice Mayor Joy Belmonte for the Quezon City Tourism Plan just last year, I proposed this idea of a Quezon City Central Park and Green Belt which I was told QC Mayor Herbert Bautista liked. I wonder if there are any updates.

Veterans Memorial Center, Ninoy Aquino Parks and Wildlife Center and Quezon Memorial Circle (Satellite image from Google Maps)

As part of the proposal, NAPWC could be professionally landscaped and transformed into a botanical garden that can earn more income from tourists. Note that we don't have a botanical garden in Metro Manila. NAPWC could be connected to QMC and Veterans via an underground pedestrian tunnel. No stairs, just an incline so people can bike or jog under towards the other side. I raised the point of removing all the unnecessary structures at the QMC (such as the unsightly amusement park) and having it landscaped professionally.

Parts of the Quezon City Hall property could also be integrated in the Quezon City Central Park since there are areas that still have a lot of large trees.

Quezon Memorial Circle, Agricultural Training Institute, National Hydraulic Research Center and UP Arboretum Forest (Satellite image from Google Maps)

QMC could then be connected by another tunnel and landscaped bike and jogging lanes to UP Diliman Campus. Another set of tunnels and bike and jogging lanes connect QMC to the UP Arboretum Forest through the Agricultural Training Institute and National Hydraulic Research Center. Note again that the lanes have to be landscaped properly! University Avenue used to have beautifully landscaped surroundings designed by National Artist Ildefonso P. Santos, Jr.

Local Water Utilities Administration and Balara Filtration Facility (Satellite image from Google Maps)

UP Diliman in turn could have landscaped bike and jogging lanes to Balara which is also another green zone as you can see from the map. And the Balara facility can be improved in such a way that it becomes a public park as well.

National Center for Mental Health with a cover of green behind and informal settlers in front

Back to Mandaluyong, seeing the large colony of informal settlers in front of the mental health center was depressing. When politicians nurture informal settler communities for their votes, we lose these few remaining open spaces.

I was told the property in front, that is said to be owned by DWSD, is about 60 hectares. And it's all informal settlers now. Too bad. If only most of our local officials had vision and were long-term thinkers, that wouldn't have happened. Such a pity also that most efforts are geared towards the next campaign. Who knows, that large patch of green on the property of the National Center for Mental Health might be the next victim of our politicians' bright ideas. Several people informed me that someone did have that "bright" idea of trying to sell the property. But it fizzled out due to strong opposition. Imagine, if the mental facility is moved elsewhere, Mandaluyong can have its own central park!

Las Pinas-Paranaque Critical Habitat and Ecotourism Area

We don't have much green spaces in Metro Manila left. Aside from those mentioned, in Quezon City there is the La Mesa Watershed (parts of which are becoming residential areas and government officials seem to be doing nothing); Manila has the Arroceros Forest Park; and the Las Pinas-Paranaque Critical Habitat and Ecotourism Area along the coast of Manila Bay (which some idiots in government are proposing for reclamation) are just some of the few green areas we have left.

Congress should enact a law prohibiting the sale and conversion of government properties in Metro Manila with significant patches of trees and open spaces. These are all potential public parks. The funds they can earn from selling these land to condominium or mall developers is short-term and pales in comparison to the priceless treasures these open spaces are for raising the quality of life in our cities. We definitely need parks and open spaces now more than we need any additional malls. Our government should give its citizens nothing less.

Save the old GSIS Headquarters!

Here we go again! News is circulating that the GSIS Building, built between 1952 and 1954, is set for demolition. Time to bang on the doors of Manila City Hall for them to implement the law!

Update (07/25/2012): The GSIS Building will be incorporated with the new Hall of Justice of the Supreme Court. We thank the National Historical Commission of the Philippines and the Supreme Court for this development.

Update (07/11/2012): We just received information that engineers from Manila City Hall had written the owner of the GSIS Building ordering its demolition. In a few days, we remember the Jai Alai tragedy. We should not let it happen again! Archt. Dominic Galicia informed us, "Reliable reports say that there are renewed and very serious pressures to demolish the old GSIS headquarters building behind Manila City Hall. Only the attention of media and the general public can save it, by reminding Manila City Hall that the Heritage Law, Republic Act 10066, protects this beautiful landmark."

Former GSIS Headquarters (Photo from Paulo Alcazaren)

Here is an appeal from Archt. Dom Galicia of the Heritage Conservation Society (HCS) and ICOMOS Committee on 20th Century Heritage:

We are hearing reports that Manila City Hall has given the OK to demolish the old GSIS Headquarters building on Arroceros Street designed by Federico Ilustre. The Heritage Law states that it would be a crime to demolish a structure of this vintage, which is older than 50 years, without permission from the NCCA. Considering the cultural value of this structure, that permission is not likely to be forthcoming. See the attached photo from Paulo Alcazaren's archive.

It's abandoned and needing repair, but still a beautiful, elegant and intelligent response to climate and site, eminently suitable via adaptive reuse for whatever new purpose comes to bear.

On the heels of February's demolition of the old Meralco Building on San Marcelino and, soon after, the Laperal Building on Claro M. Recto, this first half of 2012 could live in patrimonial infamy, in spite of all the strides being made with Manila Central Post Office and Escolta.

Please write Manila Mayor Alfredo Lim at mayorlim@manila.gov.ph. Let him know that the old GSIS Building can be saved via adaptive reuse. It is also important that you cc: your email to hcs_secretariat@yahoo.com. HCS will help make sure that the Mayor sees your message.

Remember the Jai Alai!

HCS members checked Wikimapia. And lo and behold, the GSIS Building is labeled as SM Manila's Annex!

Note: We have yet to confirm who has plans for the property. We were told that the owner as of early last year was the Supreme Court. They had swapped the Jai Alai property with the GSIS Building and that they plan to build their Hall of Justice. Isn't it ironic if another heritage building is torn down for the same purpose?

Another piece of information comes from Wikimapia and that it will allegedly become an annex of SM Manila. If the GSIS Building is torn down to make way for another SM building, that will add to their crimes against heritage which includes the demolition of the San Lazaro Hippodrome (now SM San Lazaro), YMCA (now SM Manila), Pines Hotel (now SM Baguio) and the many pine trees they massacred to build the mall, Emilio Aguinaldo College (now SaveMore Sta. Ana) and the Benguet Building of National Artist Leandro Locsin among many others.

More photos of the GSIS Building in SkyscraperCity.

Manila: Rowing the Pasig River with Manila Boat Club (Sta. Ana)

Have you ever considered rowing? Now that the Pasig River is getting cleaner, you might want to try rowing there one of these days. The historic Manila Boat Club in Sta. Ana, Manila encourages interested individuals and groups to try rowing as a sport. I've actually visited the club twice already. And I definitely enjoyed the rowing experience.

Founded in 1895, the Manila is said to be the oldest existing club in Manila. The building at its current site was opened in 1932. But some of its boats date back to its early days (when the club was located on Manila Bay and later Nagtahan and Isla Provisor) and are thus over a hundred years old. Indeed, the club has a rich heritage.

Inside the Manila Boat Club are squash courts, which in 1970, were the very first to be opened outside military bases.

The new officers of the Manila Boat Club are slowly reviving interest in rowing and are encouraging interested individuals and groups to try it out by visiting the club. Of course, you might want to consider becoming a member of the club if you're interested in the sport. It's best to arrive before sunrise or late in the afternoon to avoid the heat of the sun, especially this summer. They have instructors who can teach you the basics of rowing.

Rivers provide a different view of the city. In fact, most cities around the world consider their rivers as showcases of fine architecture. Manila used to have its most beautiful buildings by the Pasig River. And rowing is one way to see the city in a different light.

If you're interested to try out rowing at the Manila Boat Club, please contact the club president Quintin Pastrana at qvpastrana@yahoo.com. Row, row, row your boat!

Manila Boat Club
2442 Havana Street
cor. Del Pan Street, Sta. Ana
Manila, Philippines