Indonesia: Lake Toba, Samosir Island and the Batak people

I've heard so much about Lake Toba (Danau Toba) in North Sumatra, Indonesia, the largest volcanic lake in the world. To give you perspective, it's more than twice the size of Singapore. But I didn't realize finding out how to get to Lake Toba from Medan was not going to be easy.

I was expecting there would be frequent tours to Lake Toba leaving from Medan. Bus after asking around at many local travel agencies (they mainly sell flights and outbound tours), I found out there were no tours and the best you could get from them was to hire a private vehicle, cost starting at Rp600,000 if you are lucky. But at least one gave me advice on how to get there on my own.

Getting to Lake Toba by bus from Medan
Regular and frequent bus trips leave the Amplas Terminal for Parapat, a resort town on the shores of Lake Toba. There are scheduled VIP or deluxe buses, as well as vans trips that cost up to Rp150,000. But more frequent and much cheaper are the non-aircon buses that cost between Rp32,000 to 35,000 for the five-hour bus ride. Just tell your angkot driver you want to go to Parapat and they'd point you to the bus. I ended up taking the non-aircon bus for Parapat that left at about 6:30 a.m. and arrived at 11:30 a.m. just in time for lunch.

There are a lot of hotels, resort and budget accommodation in Parapat. I was easily able to find one that fit my budget, maybe because it was a weekday. After settling down and a late lunch, I walked to the Tigaraja Pier to catch a ferry to Samosir Island.

What to see in Lake Toba
One of the main attractions of Lake Toba is Samosir Island, which is home to the Batak people. From the Tigaraja Pier in Parapat, there are ferry services to Tuk-Tuk and Tomok on Samosir Island.

Trips from Tigaraja to Tuk-Tuk start at 8:30 a.m. with the last one leaving Tigaraja at 7:00 p.m. While trips from Tuk-Tuk to Tigaraja start at 7:00 a.m. with the last one leaving Tuk-Tuk at 5:30 p.m. Trips from Tigaraja to Tomok on the other hand start at 7:00 a.m. with the last one leaving Tigaraja at 7 p.m. While trips from Tomok to Tigaraja start at 6:30 a.m. with the last one leaving Tomok at 6:30 p.m. I spent Rp10,000 for the ferry ride from Tigaraja to Tuk-Tuk.

At Tuk-Tuk, I hired a motorcycle driver to take me around the different cultural attractions. We made two stops. The first one was the Tomb of King Sidabutar. King Sidabutar, Raja di Huta was ruler of the Batak village of Tomok. Legend also says he was the first settler on Samosir Island.

From Tomok, we proceeded to Huta Siallagan in Ambarita Village. Along the way were views of verdant green rice fields and hills behind the. Samosir is quite large, you forget that you are on an island within a lake.

In Huta Siallagan, there are several Batak houses in the compound plus stone chairs carved from volcanic rock which was where King Siallagan and his council governed the village and decided the fate of criminals.

Greeting us at the gate were figures carved from volcanic stone. Huta Siallagan is a fantastic example of a traditional Batak village, definitely among the places you have to see when visiting Samosir Island.

We arrived in Tuk-Tuk just in time for the 5:30 p.m. ferry back to Tigaraja. Samosir Island also has a lot of accommodation options for all budgets. Many visitors opt to stay here for a night or two and explore the rest of the island or proceed to other towns along the shores of Danau Toba. One of the resorts I particularly found charming was the Silintong Hotel in Tuk-Tuk (silintong_hotel@yahoo.com; 0625 451242) which I would have enjoyed staying at if I had the time.

Indonesia: Eating in Medan

Medan, Indonesia is know among locals for its food because of the many different cuisines available there. Among the ethnic groups represented in Medan are the Malay, Acehnese, Javanese, Batak, Minangkabau (Padang/West Sumatra), Chinese, Southern Indians and Northern Indians among others, each with their own unique cuisine. So although not as popular as other Indonesian tourism destinations, Medan is one great place for food tourism. Here are some of the dishes I got to try during my tip to Medan. And it's definitely just the tip of the iceberg.

You will find many Masakan Padang at Padang-style eateries and restaurants, with Nasi Padang dishes on display on high stacked-plates in glass-covered food carts or restaurant windows. Padang is capital of the neighboring province of West Sumatra (Sumatera Barat). A popular dish they serve is Ikan Bakar, a generic term for grilled fish or seafood, which can be prepared in many ways and various flavors. At the restaurant I had lunch at, you could order on for take-away, with rice, vegetables and sauces, packed in a banana leaf and brown paper.

For lunch, it was Ayam Goreng, a generic term for chicken deep-fried in coconut oil. But Padang-style Ayam Goreng has spicy granules. It's served with vegetables, rice, sambal belacan (chili) and tempe goreng (chips). I opted to add deep-fried tahu (tofu) with chili sauce to complete my lunch.

In Parapat, I had more Padang dishes including Beef Rendang, beef chunks stewed in coconut milk and chili gravy until dry. With it, I had Telur Dudur Padang (Padang-style omelette) and Daun Singkong (cassava leaves in soup.

Back in Medan, I was craving for satay. Too bad the stall beside my hotel selling Sate Padang (in thick yellow sauce) was closed that day. So I got introduced to Acehnese cuisine through Sate Matang, served with peanut sauce.

With it, I had Martabak Telur (savory egg pancake) topped with pickled onions and chili. For dessert, I had Roti Cane, a sweet version of Roti Canai served with sugar on top instead of curry on the side.

The next day, I tried the Mie Aceh (spicy Aceh-style fried egg noodles) at another stall near the hotel.

Of course, because North Sumatra has a lot of durian plantations, you have to try the durian! Beside my hotel is Ucok Durian, a popular durian supplier which is open 24/7!

But then again, those were just a few dishes. And there were thousands of others to choose from! So take your pick and food trip in Medan, Indonesia if you get the chance. Here are some helpful tips about Medan and its attractions if you do decide to visit.

Indonesia: What to see in Medan & North Sumatra

So I decided to fly to Medan to cross out Sumatra from my list of places to visit. Medan is the capital of North Sumatra (Sumatera Utara). The main attraction of North Sumatra is Lake Toba, a five-hour land trip from Medan. But the city has some interesting heritage buildings and is a melting pot of different cuisines making it a very popular food tourism destination.

Bus to Medan from Kualanamu International Airport (KNO)
The new Kualanamu International Airport is about 40 kilometers from Medan. There are many ways to get to Medan from the airport. The cheapest way is by taking the Damri Airport Bus which costs Rp10,000 to the Amplas Terminal (which is far from the city center) and Rp15,000 to the downtown area.

From Amplas, you can take an angkot (public minivan) to the downtown area, about Rp6,000. Angkots have route numbers on them. So make sure to ask your hotel what angkot number to take from Amplas and where to get off. Note though that it can get really tight and uncomfortable. So it's not a good idea if you have lots of luggage. Buses out of Medan also leave from Amplas. So if you are going to Lake Toba, you can take a bus to Parapat directly from Amplas.

If you take the Damri bus all the way to the downtown area, find out which stop is closest to your hotel. You can hire a becak (trishaw); but knowing you just came from the airport, they'll try to charge you as much as they can. But it shouldn't cost more than Rp15,000 to Rp20,000.

The fastest way from Kualanamu to Medan is by train. It will take about 45 minutes and costs Rp80,000. That will depend of course if there is a train leaving when you exit the airport (wait is between 1 to 2 hours between trips). The most convenient way is of course by taxi. But that will set you back by at least Rp150,000.

What to see in Medan
Unfortunately, most people you'll encounter in Medan don't speak English. So it's quite difficult to communicate. A Bahasa Indonesia phrasebook may come in handy. Since there are just a few attractions in the city, getting around can be easy if you know what angkut number passes by them. You can also haggle with a becak to take you to them (difficult to bargain with them though if you can't speak the language since they know you are a tourist) or take a Blue Bird taxi for comfort.

The major attractions are the Masjid Raya Al-Mashun and Istana Maimun (Maimun Palace). Masjid Raya Al-Mashun is definitely a landmark of Medan and the largest mosque in North Sumatra. It was built by Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid from 1906 to 1909. Designed by Dutch architects (initially by van Erp; but work was continued by A.J. Dingemans), many of the materials were imported including chandeliers from France, tiles from Italy and stained glass windows from China.

The main dome has an octagonal floor plan. There are four domed wings attached to the main building and four arched hallways connecting the wings. Architectural influences from both Europe and the Middle East are evident.

Outside the mosque is a cemetery where many members of the royal family are buried. A minaret stands proudly in one corner of the property, where calls to prayer echo from loud speakers attached to the top.

Note that shorts are not allowed inside the mosque. You will be asked to wear a sarong. Mandatory contributions for visitors are requested when you register at the gate, usually between Rp5,000 to Rp20,000. And you will also be asked to contribute to the shoe deposit when you take off your shoes or slippers as you enter the main building.

The Istana Maimun (Maimoon Palace) was the royal palace of the Sultanate of Deli and built by Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid (Tuangku Ma'moen Al Rasyid) in 1888. Just like the mosque, the mix of architectural styles (Malay, Dutch, Turkish, Spanish, etc.) is very evident.

Although the current sultan no longer wields political power, he still lives in the palace. But visitors are allowed to explore the throne room. There's a Rp5,000 fee to enter. Inside, you can also dress like the sultan and the royal family. Rental fee for the baju is Rp10,000.

Another attraction I got to visit is the Kuil Shri Mariamman (Shri Mariamman Temple), a Hindu temple built in 1884. One heritage landmark I missed was the Tjong A Fie Mansion which has many similarities to Penang's Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion.

Now time to find out what to eat in Medan, Indonesia!