Lanao del Sur: Mindanao State University and the Maranao torogans in Marawi City

The Islamic City of Marawi is the capital of Lanao del Sur. Since it was close to Iligan City, we decided to drive to this city with really pleasant weather. It's actually 833 meters above sea level which explains the cool climate.

You know you're in Marawi City when you see all the congratulatory streamers. They congratulate their relatives and friends for even the smallest things such as promotions at work or passing the civil service exam, and the usual congratulatory streamers for board and bar exam passers. For well-off families, they'd have streamers and billboards all over the city which is almost overdoing it in my opinion.



One of the more popular places to visit in Marawi City is the Mindanao State University (MSU). If you only have a few hours in Marawi City, like in my case, this is the first place you should visit. We first dropped by the King Faisal Mosque which was donated by the King of Saudi Arabia to MSU. From there, we drove around campus. Unfortunately, it was a Sunday. So the Aga Khan Museum was closed.




A great place to view Lake Lanao and Marawi City is at the MSU Golf Course. There is also a hotel in MSU which use to be owned by the Ayalas I was told. It is now the Marawi Resort Hotel.



From MSU, we drove to two of Marawi City's last Maranao torogans. The city should preserve the few torogans that remain. And hopefully, the National Historical Commission of the Philippines starts including vernacular architecture in its list of Heritage Houses. At the moment, all the houses are bahay na bato. But it would be nice to see Ivatan stone houses, Ifugao huts and, of course, these Maranao torogans declared as Heritage Houses soon.

If you do plan to visit Marawi City, make sure you have friends there or are accompanied by locals when you make your way around.

Lanao del Norte: NPC Nature Park at Maria Cristina Falls & Macapagal-Macaraeg House in Iligan City

Lanao del Norte is a a short ferry ride from Ozamiz City. From the Ozamiz Port, it's a 20-minute ferry ride to Mukas Port in Kolambugan, Lanao del Norte. The ferries across Panguil Bay cut land travel by several hours.

I was met by a colleague, Lanao del Norte Board Member Alexander Ali, who took me for a ride around the province. Our first stop was the Lanao del Norte Provincial Capitol in Tubod where a small museum on the province, its culture and attractions was set-up.

From there, we rushed to Iligan City to catch the Maria Cristina Falls. The flow of water is usually at 30 percent on ordinary days. But at 11 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, the Maria Cristina Power Plant opens the water gates for five minutes to allow the falls to go on full-blast for the tourists. Unfortunately for us, Lake Lanao was experiencing a water shortage. So the scheduled full-blast did not push through that day.


They opened the NPC Nature Park just two weeks before my visit. So I got to try their brand-new zip-line. Unlike the usual single or double drop zip-lines, the one in Maria Cristina had four segments. You had to climb up a hill to get to the jump-off point. The first two segments were above land over a canopy of trees. While the last two segments were over the river.


The NPC Nature Park charges Php30 for entrance and Php200 for the zip-line. Other attractions in the park include an orchidarium and crocodile farm. If you plan to fly by air to visit Iligan, the Cagayan de Oro Airport would be closer.


After Maria Cristina Falls, we had lunch at Gloria's Ihaw-Ihaw for some lechon manok. The name is no surprise since it's located right in front of the Macapagal-Macaraeg Heritage House.



I walked over to the Macapagal-Macaraeg Heritage House after lunch to take some photos. In the yard is a sculpture depicting the young Gloria Macapagal on a swing, with her father President Diosdado Macapagal.


From Iligan, we drove through Baloi which is quite popular for its dodol, a toffee-like candy made with coconut milk, panocha (unrefined sugar or jaggery) and rice flour. Baloi is a relatively peaceful town (it's home to the Philippine Science High School in Northern Mindanao) and the local government plans to construct a Maranao heritage village soon to showcase the Maranao culture.

Malaysia: Filipino Market and other markets in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

There are several interesting markets in Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia. I've already featured the Gaya Street Sunday Market which is open only on Sundays. But there are markets which are open daily. Aside from the Pasar Besar Kota Kinabalu or the Central Market along Jalan Tun Fuad Stephen, there are specialized markets along the same street. Would you believe that this complex of markets is more popularly referred to as the Filipino Market or Pasar Filipina since most of the stalls are run by Filipino immigrants mostly from Sulu and Tawi-Tawi?



The most popular is the Handicrafts Centre or the Pasar Kraftangan where you can buy local handicrafts such as shell curtains, baskets and bags, cultured pearls, cultural items and other souvenirs including key chains, magnets and t-shirts. Notice also the Filipino tailors station in front of the market with their sewing machines.



Beside the Handicrafts Market is the Salted Fish Market or Pasar Ikan Masin where you could purchase dried fish and other seafood. I saw a lot of dried fish, sea cucumber and even seahorses!



Next to the Pasar Ikan Masin is the Pasar Buah-Buahan Tempatan or the Local Fruit Market. Aside from the local fruits (Mindanao and Sabah virtually have the same selection of fruits), there are also snacks and other delicacies sold in this market.



Behind the main building of the Pasar Buah-Buahan Tempatan is a tent market which sells even more fruits and produce, and seafood among others.


Beside it is another tent market which hosts dozens of hawker stalls which is referred to as the Kota Kinabalu Night Market or the Filipino Night Market since the stalls usually open at sunset from 6:30 to 11 p.m. If you're a fan of street food, this is one place you should visit.

Another night market is the Kampung Air Night Market or Pasar Malam where you can find t-shirts, pants, shoes, and watches and other items you might want to give to friends.

Malaysia: Whitewater rafting in the Kiulu River (Kota Kinabalu, Sabah)

After trekking up Mount Kinabalu, we decided we wanted more adventure in Sabah. So we went whitewater rafting in the Kiulu River. There are many places to go whitewater rafting is Sabah. Kiulu River has level 1 to 2 rapids which are good for first timers and casual travelers who simply want to try whitewater rafting.

You'll have to book this activity with one of Sabah's accredited travel agencies. Our driver picked us up at our hotel at about 8:30 a.m. There were two other people in the group for a total of four passengers. It's a one and a half hour drive to the Kiulu River area.


Each travel agency has its own facilities and equipment in the area. Our boat was just big enough for four people plus the guide. Before rafting down the river, we were given a safety and instructional briefing, particularly how to sit down and what to do when you fall off the raft.


The whitewater course is about 7 kilometers and the trip lasts about an hour or two. There is a rest break in the middle which allows you to swim in the river or do some body rafting, which is riding the rapids using only your life jacket.


The guide is very entertaining as well and makes sure you enjoy the boat ride. You don't have to worry about steering the boat since the guides can ably do that as you paddle your way downstream.

At the end of the ride, there are changing and shower facilities. After freshening up, we rode the van to Kiulu Town where a heavy lunch of chicken and vegetables was waiting for us. We were back in Kota Kinabalu at about 2:30 p.m. which gave us some time to explore the city some more.

Malaysia: Kinabalu Park & trekking up Mount Kinabalu in Sabah

Mount Kinabalu is said to be the rooftop of Southeast Asia. At 4095.2 meters above sea level (MASL), it is the highest mountain in archipelagic Southeast Asia. My main reason for attempting to scale the mountain was that it is part of Kinabalu Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


At 6:30 a.m., we were picked up at our hotel in Kota Kinabalu for the two hour drive to Kinabalu Park. There is a brief stopover at a place called Nabalu where you could shop for fruits and supplies as well as take photos of Mount Kinabalu from a distance. We bought some bananas for potassium as well as isotonic drinks for the trek up.

The entrance of Kinabalu Park was about 15 minutes from Nabalu. At the park headquarters, our driver made all the arrangements for our permits, fees (permit, environmental, insurance, etc.), mountain guide and porter. They are very strict at Kinabalu Park since they require climbers to have a permit if you want to hike up Mount Kinabalu.


The permit is a plastic ID card which contains your name, permit number and the date you entered. You must wear the ID at all times since rangers check at various points on the mountain. Each group is also required to have a guide who must accompany you at all times, following the last person of the group.

There are two trails that lead up to the summit, the Timpohon and Mesilau Trails. The Timpohon Trail is the shorter and more popular route. It’s approximately 6 kilometers to Laban Rata, and an additional 2.72 kilometers to the summit which is known as Low’s Peak, for a total of 8.72 kilometers. The Mesilau Trail is 1.6 kilometers longer and navigating it is more challenging since the trail is not as developed as Timpohon. The two trails converge after KM 4 of Timpohon.


At the Timpohon Gate (1866.4 MASL), the guide is required to give you one final briefing before you are allowed to enter the gate. He then submits a record to the ranger at the gate who will ask you to sign beside your name and check that you are wearing the correct permit. From there begins the 6-kilometer trek up Laban Rata, the accommodation facility 3272 meters up Mount Kinabalu. Take note that accommodations and meals at Laban Rata have to be prearranged and reserved way in advance.


Along the way are several shelters called pondoks which serve as rest areas. Each pondok has a toilet and running water. But you will have to provide your own toilet paper. These pondoks, together with their altitude and distance from the previous one, are Pondok Kandis (1981.7 MASL, 793 meters from Timpohon Gate), Pondok Ubah (2081.4 MASL, 441 meters from Kandis), Pondok Lowii (2267.4 MASL, 750 meters from Ubah), Pondok Mempening (2515.45 MASL, 920 meters from Lowii), the Layang-Layang Staff Quarters (2702.3 MASL, 950 meters from Mempening), Pondok Villosa (2960.8 MASL, 934 meters from Layang-Layang) and Pondok Paka (3080.42 MASL, 417 meters from Villosa) before you finally arrive at the Laban Rata Resthouse (3272.2 MASL, 550 meters from Paka). Between pondoks, there are also distance markers every 500 meters of the trail.

One thing that also surprised me was that mobile phone signals were very strong throughout the trek. And this is so that communication is easily facilitated especially during emergency situations.


It is a very scenic trek and the trail is quite developed. But it is no easy trek for any beginner and navigating it will require some preparation and a certain level of physical fitness. Hiking up to Laban Rata usually takes 4 hours. The average time to get up is about 5 hours. Longer than that is slow. And we fell into that category since me and my companion had to push our physically unfit bodies up to Laban Rata for a total of 8 hours! But to make the long story short, we made it up before it got dark and in time for dinner.


Laban Rata Resthouse is the main accommodation on Mount Kinabalu and the most convenient since the food is served there. There are other huts scattered around the area, namely Gunting Lagadan Hut, Panar Laban Hut and Waras Hut. But staying in those huts will require you to walk to the main building in Laban Rata for meals. The facilities are managed by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges. Despite being basic facilities which include dorm rooms and common showers, the dorm beds are not cheap since everything, including food and supplies, has to be brought up daily by porters. Private rooms are even more expensive and very limited. Unfortunately, there was no warm water when we got there due to problems with electricity supply. So no one in the entire lodge dared take a shower since the cold water was not good for the muscles.


Lights out is very early since everyone wakes up between 1:30 to 2 a.m for a light breakfast before attempting to scale the summit. The trail opens at 2:30 a.m. and you’ll have to be up really early because the park rangers will allow attempts up Low’s Peak only at certain times, especially for those who are not experienced climbers. Unfortunately, altitude sickness is also another thing you have to face. And unfortunately, I got hit several hundred meters up the trail. Low’s Peak unfortunately had to wait another day.



Down at Laban Rata, I took a short nap before waking up to watch the sunrise. Another breakfast buffet is served and heavier than the one at 2 a.m. which is available just in time for those returning from the summit.

Going down back to the Timpohon Gate was easier for me. And I managed to make it down in four hours, half the time I took to get up. It also gave me more time to appreciate the flora and fauna, including the nepenthes (pitcher plants) and orchids. Note that there are a thousand species of orchids documented in Kinabalu Park. And you’ll notice a good number of them in bloom along the trail.


After going through the Timpohon Gate, the ranger takes note of your permit number and logs down that you've exited. At the gate, we were picked up by our driver for the 4-kilometer drive down to the Park Headquarters where a buffet lunch was waiting for us.

At the headquarters, we received our certificates that note how far we were able to climb up. After the late lunch and some rest, we made our way back to Kota Kinabalu. Others would choose to stay in the park to rest and recuperate.

How to get to Mount Kinabalu from Kota Kinabalu
You can try arranging your climb on your own. But the convenient way is to get a tour package which already includes transfers from Kota Kinabalu and back. Here is a list of travel agencies from the Sabah Tourism Board.

Public transportation conveniently passes by the gate of Kinabalu Park. Vans leave the Merdeka Field in Kota Kinabalu between 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily and the fare to Kinabalu Park is about RM17. Time of arrival varies since the vans pick-up and drop off passengers along the way. So make sure you take the first van if you are to arrive at the park HQ in the morning. Later than that means you might have to book a place to stay for the night in or close to the park HQ and trek the next day.

Preparing for a Mount Kinabalu climb
Climbing Mount Kinabalu requires a lot of preparation with logistics and physical training. Here are some things to remember when planning a trek up Mt. Kinabalu:

1. Book your accommodation way in advance
Accommodation at Laban Rata and the nearby huts is usually full. It's not a good idea to make reservations only when you arrive at the park headquarters. Beds at Laban Rata, if these are still available, are the most convenient. While you can make your bookings directly with Sutera Nature Lodges (which is usually packaged with meals), it may be more convenient to find a travel agency to do all the bookings for you since their packages include round-trip transfers from Kota Kinabalu to the park HQ and Timpohon Gate, and all the permits and fees. You simply wait and walk around the park HQ as they take care of all your papers, permits and coordination with the park management.

Permit fee for non-Malaysian is RM100 (US$32) per person. Other fees include the insurance fee RM7 (US$2.25), conservation fee RM15 (US$5), and guide fee RM85 (for 1 to 3 persons from Timpohon). Porters can also carry your luggage but it will cost RM80 (US$27) for up to 10 kilos, and RM8 (US$2.50) for every kilo thereafter.

A dorm bed accommodation at Laban Rata Resthouse (based on 2010 tariff rate) costs RM435 (US$140) while beds at Gunting Lagadan, Waras and Panar Laban cost RM385 (US$123). A room good for 2 persons at Laban Rata cost RM920 (US$294). While a room good for 6 persons is RM2835 (US$905). Rates include packed lunch on the way up, buffet dinner, early supper and breakfast at Laban Rata, and buffet lunch at Kinabalu Park Balsam Restaurant. For accommodation in Kota Kinabalu, here is a list of accommodation from the Sabah Tourism Board. Just click on the accommodation type to get the full list.

Bilik Operasi Taman Kinabalu (Park HQ)
+60 88 889095 / +60 88 889099 / Fax No. +60 88 889068

Sutera Sanctuary Lodges
+60 88 318888 / Fax No. +60 88 308449
info@suterasactuarylodges.com.my


2. Bring the proper equipment
Don't take your equipment for granted. At the very least, make sure you have reliable trekking shoes from reputable brands. (1) Shoes: Before the climb, I made sure to pass by R.O.X. and they suggested I try out the Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra trail running shoes. The grip of the shoes was really good. And I liked the fact that the shoes are water-proof and kept my feet dry despite the rains in Mount Kinabalu. I remember wearing ordinary shoes during previous rainy climbs and had deal with soggy socks. Plus the Salomon shoes served as cushions which were very helpful on the way down. No blisters on this trek!

(2) Water-proof jacket: Also make sure you have a water-proof jacket which is handy especially when it rains or when the winds are strong. I had The North Face Mammatus Jacket with me. (3) Fleece jacket: You should also bring a fleece jacket with you and the Salomon Track Hoody worked wonders for me in the cold weather with its actiTHERM technology. (4) Trekking pants: The Columbia Titanium line is a good choice. The pants I used were Columbia Titanium. Also don't forget your (5) Gloves, (6) Hat or tuque and (7) Thermal socks. It would also be wise to bring (8) Trekking poles. I had two with me. You'll also be required to bring a (9) Headlamp and (10) Whistle for the pre-dawn ascent to the summit. Also bring a (11) Socket adapter which you will need for essential charging.

3. Be physically-prepared for the climb
They say it's mostly steps going up to the summit. But it's no walk in the park. The trail is 8.72 kilometers and you will climb a total of 2228.8 meters to reach the summit. So make sure you are physically fit and train properly to be able to attempt this climb.

In emergency situations, they carry climbers down using a stretcher. But it is the park ranger who determines whether it will be charged to insurance or personal account. Only accidents get charged to insurance. If it's only muscle cramps, you can get charged at least RM400 per kilometer or approximately RM3200 (US$1000) from the summit down. So better make sure you're fit!