Mexico: Central University City Campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM)

Even school campuses can make it to the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Ciudad Universitaria (University City) of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) in Mexico City was inscribed in 2007.


According to UNESCO, "The ensemble of buildings, sports facilities and open spaces of the Central University City Campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM), was built from 1949 to 1952 by more than 60 architects, engineers and artists who were involved in the project. As a result, the campus constitutes a unique example of 20th-century modernism integrating urbanism, architecture, engineering, landscape design and fine arts with references to local traditions, especially to Mexico’s pre-Hispanic past. The ensemble embodies social and cultural values of universal significance and is one of the most significant icons of modernity in Latin America."



Since we had time in transit between bus trips, we decided to rush over to UNAM to check out the famous campus. The most iconic buildings include the Rectorate Tower and the Central Library, decorated with murals made by David Alfaro Siqueiros (Rectorate Tower) and Juan O'Gorman (Central Library).

Also in the heart of the campus is the 1968 Olympic Stadium which was also used during the 1986 Soccer World Cup. The mosaic at the entrance of the stadium and reliefs in the stands were done by Diego Rivera.


Other attractions in UNAM include the Centro Cultural Universitario (CCU) where plays, film-showings and concerts are held and the Cuicuilco Archaeological Zone. Yes, the campus has ruins of what is believed to be the largest central settlement in Mesoamerica before the rise of Teotihuacán.

How to get to UNAM
Take the Metro to Universidad. Take exits D or F to access the free shuttle buses around campus. Bus No. 1 will take you to the center of the campus where the Rectorate Tower and Central Library can be found. From there you could walk to the Estadio Olympico. Bus No. 3 takes you to the CCU and Cuicuilco. The free shuttle buses don't run on weekends and during the summer break from late June to August.

Mexico: Historic Centre of Morelia and Good Friday Procesión del Silencio

After spending the night in Queretaro, we took an early morning bus at 4 a.m. to Morelia, the capital of Michoacán. The state of Michoacán covers the former territory of the Purépechas, a people of skilled artisans and warriors that was never conquered by the Aztecs. Morelia, when it was established in 1541, was called Valladolid. It was renamed after the Mexican War of Independence in honor of José María Morelos, one of Mexico's national heroes.


As soon as we arrived in Morelia, we left our stuff at the guarda equipaje (baggage storage) at the bus station and took a cab to the centro historico. Like many of Mexico's old cities, the centro historico of Morelia was easy to explore and we gave ourselves half a day to walk around the Historic Centre of Morelia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The cab dropped us off at the massive Catedral, built between 1660 and 1744. Flanked by two plazas, the three-nave sandstone cathedral dominates the skyline of Morelia's centro historico with its two 70 meter-high bell towers.



We got to visit several churches including the Templo de San Agustin, Templo de la Merced, Templo de las Rosas, Templo del Carmen, Templo de San Jose, Templo de San Francisco, Templo de las Monjas and the Templo de la Cruz. Talk about church overload! But unfortunately, we missed the best one, the Santuario de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe which is a further away from the cathedral, near the historic aqueduct. The lavish decorations inside the church created in the early 20th century were molded from clay and combine Art Noveau and Baroque elements.

For those with a sweet tooth, you can pass by the Mercado de Dulces y Artesianas, a sweets market behind the Centro Cultural de Clavijero.

Walking around Morelia was quite straightforward and easy as long as you have a map. After an early lunch, we found ourselves hopping on a bus again, this time to Mexico City for a brief transit to the south of Mexico. More photos in the Ivan About Town Facebook page.


Procesión del Silencio on Good Friday
During Semana Santa, Morelia is famous for its Procesión del Silencio which departs from the Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel at 7:30 p.m. and goes through Avenida Madero, Catedral, Quintana Roo, Allende, Plaza Valladolid and ends at the Templo de Capuchinas.

Mexico: Walking around Querétaro's centro historico

After spending the morning exploring San Miguel de Allende, we proceeded to Querétaro in the afternoon. The Historic Monuments Zone of Querétaro is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The sun was above us when we arrived and we decided to wait for things to cool down a bit before we started walking around the centro historico. So we went to the neighborhood lavandería to get our clothes ready for another round. Since it was nearing summer, days were longer. So we had more than enough time to explore later in the afternoon.


According to UNESCO, "The old colonial town of Querétaro is unusual in having retained the geometric street plan of the Spanish conquerors side by side with the twisting alleys of the Indian quarters. The Otomi, the Tarasco, the Chichimeca and the Spanish lived together peacefully in the town, which is notable for the many ornate civil and religious Baroque monuments from its golden age in the 17th and 18th centuries."


We began our walk around Querétaro at Plaza de la Constitucion. On one side is the Templo de San Francisco, which you can't miss because of its bright red orange facade. It served as the cathedral of Querétaro for two centuries. The church is decorated with tiles imported from Spain. Some of the smaller Baroque altars are still there. But the main altar was replaced with the current Neoclassic altar.



Walking along one of the streets beside the church, we found ourselves at Plaza de las Armas where one can find the Casa de la Corregidora. A very significant historical site of Mexico, it was in this building that Dona Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez (wife of the local corregidor), planned the initial stages of the Mexican War of Independence together with Miguel Hidalgo, Ignacio Allende and other intellectuals. For her role in the conspiracy, she was put on house arrest and later executed.



Of course, like many old cities in Mexico, there are many interesting churches. My favorites were the Templo de Santa Clara with its magnificent Baroque interior, and the Templo y Convento de Santa Rosa de Viterbo. Outside the Templo de Santa Clara, you would immediately notice its inverted flying buttresses with gargoyles and Mudejar-style cupola. Just like Santa Clara, the interior is a masterpiece of Baroque altars. Notice the pulpit with inlaid with ivory, nacre, turtle shell and silver. This is one church you've got to see when in Queretaro.


I really like walking around old Mexican cities. The plazas are well-maintained and kept open. If we had more time, it would have been a good idea just to sit down in those plazas and do nothing. After we visited most of the major sites, we proceeded back to the hostel and retired for the night. We had a 4 a.m. bus to Morelia to catch.

If you were wondering why it's called a historic monuments zone, the inscription includes an extensive archaeological site known as El Pueblito or El Cerrito, dominated by a 30-meter high pyramid, and situated seven kilometers from the centro. We didn't have time to get to it though. More photos in the Ivan About Town Facebook page.

Philippine Registry of Cultural Property (PRECUP) updated 10/17/2011

It's time to update the Philippine Registry of Cultural Property (PRECUP). Last Friday, we got the latest list from the National Historical Commission of the Philippines. They declared seven structures in 2010 and this year, four as of October 14, 2011.


Declared as National Historical Landmark are the Capitol Building of Tayabas (now Quezon Province) in Lucena; Santa Cruz Parish Convent in Tanza, Cavite; Church of Loon in Bohol; Old Legislative Building (National Museum) in Manila; Bahay Nakpil-Bautista in Quiapo, Manila and the University of Santo Tomas.

Declared as Heritage Houses are the Lichauco Residence in Sta. Ana, Manila (which I was surprised to find out, is the first declared Heritage House in Metro Manila); Augusto P. Hizon House in San Fernando, Pampanga; Alberta Uitangcoy House in Malolos, Bulacan and the Mira-Nila House in Cubao, Quezon City.


They also declared the the Old Town of Dapitan as the first Heritage Zone under RA 10066.

Preserve the Mountain Province Capitol in Bontoc!

Last night, I received word HCS Chairperson Gemma Cruz-Araneta that another heritage building, this time in Mountain Province, was proposed for demolition. I was told that provincial government wanted to replace the charming American colonial capitol building in Bontoc, Mountain Province with a new structure. The Mountain Province Capitol was in fact among the local government buildings featured in the 2007 HCS Calendar.


I verified with the National Historical Commission of the Philippines to check if they knew about it. And it turns out, they've already acted on it. But their recommendations are a a bit alarming too. Below are excerpts from the letter of NHCP chairperson Dr. Ma. Serena Diokno to Gov. Leonard G. Mayaen:

This has reference to your letter regarding the plan to reconstruct the old wooden provincial capitol building and inquiry if it has been declared Important Cultural Property pursuant to RA 10066.

Please be informed that Section 5 of Republic Act 10066 (National Cultural Heritage Act of 2009) states that all structures more than 50 years old are presumed to be Important Cultural Property. While there has been no formal declaration made by the National Museum (NM) or National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) on the provincial capitol building, it has been an important part of the history and cultural life of the province. We strongly suggest that a new and appropriately sized Capitol Building be constructed at another site to accommodate the various offices and functions of the provincial government, while the original front wing of the old capitol building be preserve and reused as a provincial museum, cultural and tourism office, or training and conference center.

The provincial government may also consider the following options:

1. Preserve the building shell and reconstruct the interior with reinforced concrete or steel framework. This will need prior approval of architectural design by the NHCP and extensive photo-documentation before, during and, after intervention.

2. Dismantle the wooden building wing and reconstruct its architecture using simulated concrete material. This will need prior approval of architectural design by the NHCP and extensive photo-documentation before, during and, after intervention.

3. Dismantle the wooden building wing and integrate its facade into the new (replacement) building. This will need prior approval of architectural design by the NHCP and extensive photo-documentation before, during and, after intervention.

We would appreciate a copy of the development plan for our assessment and recommendations.