Parañaque: Crispy Chili Garlic Bacon at The Burgery, BF Homes

BF Homes Parañaque is definitely a foodie haven. I was looking for something to eat late last night and went for a drive along Aguirre Avenue. That's one long stretch of restaurants, many of which you'll only find in BF.

We saw this new restaurant called The Burgery. Of course, the main attraction of their menu are the burgers and burger rice meals. But they have other dishes. A large poster actually caught my attention: Crispy Chili Garlic Bacon that was topped on herbed rice. I'll let the photo do the talking. I should explore more of BF during weekends!

Thailand: Beach hopping in Phuket (Rawai, Kata, Karon & Patong)

People don't realize that Phuket is actually a large island, a province of Thailand in fact. It took me an about an hour to get from the Phuket International Airport on the northern end of the island to my resort on Cape Panwa, the southwestern tip of Phuket. I stayed at what many consider to be among the best resorts on the island, Sri Panwa Phuket, an experience I will share in another post.

Phuket actually has quite a number of popular beaches. Unfortunately, I had a hire a car to take me to see all the beaches. It was a rainy September when I was in Phuket so the sun was not out. But I got to see Rawai, Kata, Karon and Patong Beaches, albeit under overcast skies.

My first beach stop was Rawai Beach which was closest to the resort, being on the south side of Phuket as well. It's not really popular for swimming but you'll find traditional fishing boats and long tail boats moored at the beach, which tourists hire for snorkeling and sightseeing trips to nearby islands.

Kata Beach (Kata Yai and Kata Noi) and neighboring Karon Beach are popular surfing beaches. Kata, with its village atmosphere, is more family-oriented, and a quieter version of party Patong. Kata Noi has the resorts, restaurants and tourist shops while Kata Yai is the less-developed beach.

Karon Beach is the second largest tourist beach of Phuket, with three kilometers of white sand. Most of the beach is public since a busy road separates the resorts form the beach itself. The beach is said to be the most upscale of the beaches of Phuket. 

Patong Beach is Phuket's party beach. It gets rowdy especially in the evening with numerous hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and bars to choose from. While accommodation here can get expensive, backpacker accommodation is also abundant in the area. It actually caters to everyone from budget to five-star.

At the time of my visit, winds were strong and waves were high. While it was surfer's paradise, swimming was not allowed in certain areas. So watch out for the red warning flags before you head for the beach. If these flags are up, please do heed them. Hopefully, I get to visit Phuket again now that there are direct flights from Manila.

We arrange tours to Phuket, Thailand. Contact us at tours@ivanhenares.com for more details.

Adaptive reuse in the Philippines, an appeal to real estate developers

One of the goals of the Heritage Conservation Society is to convince real estate developers and heritage property owners that they need not demolish old buildings in order to create new developments that are economically-viable. In fact, incorporating built heritage enhances the character of new developments and has been proven, in many countries, to increase property values and returns on investment.

Adaptive reuse is a creative mode of conservation that gives heritage structures new and alternative functions other than the original ones that may no longer be required. Most often than not, built heritage resources are found on premium real estate property so developers are in a hurry to demolish rather than restore and recycle. Today, there is a growing awareness that adaptive reuse can enhance property value.

A stylized DNA double helix is the focus of the glass-covered central courtyard, the symbolic center of the new Museum of Natural History (Photo from National Museum)

(Above) The exteriors of the heritage DOT building are maintained, except for the addition of a glass dome covering the central courtyard; (Below) Shown by blue arrows, air circulation through the central coutryard passively cools the interior environment. Low-emissivity glass reflects solar heat as shown by yellow arrows (Photo from the National Museum)

Examples of adaptive reuse in the country include the Old Legislative Building and Department of Finance, now the National Art Gallery and the Museum of the Filipino People, component museums of the National Museum. The Department of Tourism (former Department of Agriculture) will soon be transformed into the Museum of Natural Sciences with Architect Dominic Galicia leading the team that will retrofit this old building to house the new museum.

Nielson Tower was the former Manila International Air Terminal. The first flight of Philippine Airlines took off from here (Photo from Wikipedia uploaded by user Christopher Rath)

Another classic example is the Nielson Tower (former Manila International Air Terminal) which used to house the Filipinas Heritage Library. Ayala definitely did a good job with this adaptive reuse since Nielson Tower was recognized by the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Awards for Culture Heritage Conservation in  2001.

Juan Luna E-Service Building (Photo from Augusto Villalon)

A close-up of the additional floor of the Juan Luna E-Service Building (Photo from Augusto Villalon)

The Juan Luna E-Services Building (former First National City Bank) in Binondo, Manila is being retrofitted to host a future call center. The architect of this project is Augusto Villalon. Notice the additional floor discreetly and intelligently added to the structure. Much of Escolta is also being prepared for adaptive reuse. Who said heritage buildings can't be useful today?

In many countries, like Australia, demolition of heritage structures is considered wasteful. The Department of the Environment and Heritage of Australia says, “Sustainable development has become a goal for all Australian  governments seeking to balance the health of the environment with the health  of the economy. The predominant vision of a sustainable built future is of state of the art buildings utilising energy efficient design and materials. In reality, this vision should consider the 200 years of European built heritage that stands in tandem with the green structures we rightly seek to create.

“The built environment provides a footnote to our histories, helping to identify our places as Australian, rather than generically ‘modern’ or ‘contemporary’. Historic buildings give us a glimpse of our past and lend character to our communities as well as serving practical purposes now.

“In the pursuit of sustainable development, communities have much to gain from adaptively reusing historic buildings.

“Bypassing the wasteful process of demolition and reconstruction alone sells the environmental benefits of adaptive reuse. Environmental benefits, combined with energy savings and the social advantage of recycling a valued heritage place make adaptive reuse of historic buildings an essential component of sustainable development.”

Download a copy of the publication Adaptive Reuse: Preserving our past, building our future for more information and inspiration.

Another Australian publication featuring adaptive reuse comes from the State Heritage Office of the Government of Western Australia. You can download a copy of Heritage in Action: Adaptive Reuse for even more intelligent examples.

Pratt Street Power Planet (Photo from Wikipedia uploaded by user Andrew Horne)

Western Metal Supply Company (Photo from Wikipedia uploaded by user UCinternational)

The Pratt Street Power Plant in Baltimore, Maryland, United States, was converted into retail, restaurants, and offices. I've personally seen this and I've seen how it's been an important public space of the city. The Western Metal Building was not demolished to build Petco Park, the home field of the San Diego Padres. See how it was tastefully incorporated with the new complex.

Young Street Lane Offices by Malcolm Fraser Architects is located in a mews street in Edinburgh’s original New Town (Photo by David Cemry)

Then there are the entries to the inaugural WAN Adaptive Re-use Award 2012. The winner was the Music School Louviers in Normandy, France. Inhabitat.com also has an index of articles featuring examples of adaptive reuse. Alyn Griffiths shares even more examples in an Architonic.com article Help the Aged: innovative adaptive reuse in architecture.

Fort Point Loft Condominiums, a 140,000 square foot project, encompasses the adaptive reuse of two historic structures, the construction of a new building on an adjacent lot, and a three-story rooftop addition above all three structures (Photo from AIA)

I personally like the Fort Point Loft Condominiums in Boston, Massachusetts which was among the winners of the American Institute of Architects (AIA) 2009 Housing Awards. The three floors that were added was set back so you don't see them at street level. Plus the new building they constructed followed the scale and proportions of the two older buildings. Another AIA honoree is the Ford Assembly Plant which was among the recipients of the 2011 Institute Honor Awards.

McDonald's New Hyde Park (Photo from ScoutingNY.com)

Now who said you have to demolish a heritage building for McDonald's. Check out the McDonald's in New Hyde Park, which is arguably, the most beautiful McDonald's store in the United States. In fact, in many places that I visited, especially in Europe and South America, McDonald's stores can be found in heritage buildings. Now why the hell can't we do it in the Philippines?

In Ontario, Canada, Does Adaptive Reuse Pay? A Study of the Business of Building Renovation in Ontario, Canada was written by Robert Shipley, Steve Utz and Michael Parsons. They note, “Older buildings are important aesthetic, cultural and economic resources but in many jurisdictions hundreds of historic buildings have been demolished because developers and bankers argued that the cost of adapting them for new uses is too high. Still, a growing number of reputable developers are completing exciting projects featuring innovative building renovation.” The writers add, “In Ontario, Canada, there exists a group of dynamic and creative investors with a passion for older buildings. Some reuse projects are more costly than new building but not all and the return on investment for heritage development is almost always higher. This has important implications in Ontario where recent legislative changes have finally given local councils the authority to prevent the demolition of listed buildings, but the lessons for other jurisdictions are also important.”

Tutuban Centermall (Photo from Wikipedia uploaded by user Spatrol)

RCBC Silay City

Museo Ilocos Norte

There are so many other good examples from the Philippines, such as the Tutuban Centermall (former Tutuban Railway Station), RCBC Silay City which is housed in the former Golez Mansion, and the Museo Ilocos Norte in what originally was a Tabacalera warehouse (by Architect Jojo Mata). The list continues to grow. And it is important that owners, architects and developers in the Philippines to embrace this concept of adaptive reuse if we are to make our country and its cities outstanding places with character and identity. This much we owe to our nation.

Heritage Conservation Summit 2013: Heritage and Real Estate Development
Heritage advocates, property owners, real estate and mall developers, cultural workers and government agencies will gather on November 9, 2013 for the Heritage Conservation Summit 2013. This year's theme is Heritage and Real Estate Development where discussions will revolve on how built heritage can enhance real estate and mall developments. Mark your calendars! Venue to be announced next month.

Join our upcoming tours to Nepal, Turkey, India, Egypt, Dubai & many more!

We've got a number of tours lined up for 2013 and 2014! Check out our latest tour calendar and we hope you could join us during one of our trips!

Tour Schedule

• Nepal via KL (August 21-28, 2013)
• Hanoi and Halong Bay, Vietnam (September 24-29, 2013)
• Italy (October 19-27, 2013)
• Chiang Mai, Thailand (October 24-28, 2013)
• Penang, Malaysia (November 14-18, 2013)
• Turkey (November 15-26, 2013)
• India (December 27, 2013-January 2, 2014)
• Egypt and Dubai (January 18-26, 2014)

Indonesia: Jatiluwih Rice Terraces & the Cultural Landscape of Bali Province

An island steeped in deep Hindu-religiosity in a predominantly Muslim nation, with colorful temples and traditions, captivating landscapes and numerous surfing beaches with a vibrant nightlife, visiting Bali can be an unforgettable cultural experience. It is no surprise then that the Cultural Landscape of Bali Province was inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2012. This inscription has four locations: (1a) Supreme Water Temple Pura Ulun Danu Batur, (1b) Lake Batur, (2) Subak Landscape of Pekerisan Watershed, (3) Subak Landscape of Catur Angga Batukaru and (4) Royal Water Temple Pura Taman Ayun.

The Pekerisan Watershed includes Subak Pulagan, Subak Kulub, Kulub Village, Tampaksiring Village, Manukaya Village, Pegulingan Temple, Tirta Empul Temple, Mengening Temple and Gunung Kawi Site. While Catur Angga Batukaru is composed of fifteen subak namely Bedugul, Jatiluwih, Kedampal, Keloncing, Penatahan, Pesagi, Piak, Puakan, Rejasa, Sangketan, Soka, Tegallinggah, Tengkudak and Wangaya Betan.

I went to three sites early this month. These are the Tirta Empul Temple (which I also got to visit in 2009), the Royal Water Temple Pura Taman Ayun, and the subak of the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, said to be the best-preserved of the subak included in the inscription. My immersion in Jatiluwih was quite profound thanks to the invitation of Heru and Grace Tarjoto. The Tarjotos, who own a rice mill in Jatiluwih, contribute quite a lot to the promotion and distribution of Jatiluwih red rice. And Grace, a Filipina who has lived in Bali for so many years, is the honorary consul of the Philippines in Bali.

It took me two hours to get to Jatiluwih Village from Kuta. There were no highways. Just narrow rural roads that took me through Bali's verdant rice fields. I dozed off at times, having been up quite late the night before. But the view of the rice terraces as we neared Jatiluwih was incentive enough to stay alert. I'd ask my driver to stop occasionally for me to capture the picturesque views of villages amidst the rice terraces.

Towering over Jatiluwih Village are three grand mountains namely Mount Batukaru (2276m), Mount Sangyang (2,093m) and Mount Poohoen (2,063m). Unfortunately, clouds beat me to the view by a good thirty minutes or so. Some photographers stay overnight in Jatiluwih just to capture the scene of the three mountains with fertile rice terraces below.

Jatiluwih Village is further divided into seven communities or tempek that form three subak. Subak Gunung Sari has Umakayu (38ha) and Gunung Sari Desa (45ha). Subak Jatiluwih has Central Jatiluwih (90ha), Besikalong (40ha) and Kesambih (25ha). While Subak Kedamaian has Umadui (30ha) and Kedamaian Utara (35ha).

Most of the rice in Central Jatiluwih had been harvested over the past few days. So the rice terraces weren't as picturesque as they should be. Good thing the harvest in Gunung Sari wasn't due until a few more days, thus giving me the opportunity to experience beautiful scenes of Bali's agricultural heritage.

Subak is all about water management and the beautiful interaction between man and nature. Water for irrigation comes from several natural springs that bubble in various points throughout the subak. Springs are marked by a water temple (bhet gedong), each providing irrigation to the paddies below through water channels called sungai. Farmers care for the spring but don't get to use the water. Rather it benefits other farmers below. And that's the spirit of cooperation in this unique water management system of Bali.

Even cow sheds have a use, each with two cows, and strategically located across the system. The waste produced by the cows serves as fertilizer, with water from the springs and rain washing the manure to the rice fields. Everything is natural here and Jatiluwih's fragrant red rice is proudly organic since even insects and birds are repelled naturally by certain genetic features of the rice variety.

But with the UNESCO inscription, tourists have started to arrive. There's a construction frenzy for tourist accommodation and facilities in Central Jatiluwih which if unregulated, might erase the charm and essence of this beautiful village. I was also told stories of the local government confiscating funds raised by the village through entrance fees, leaving nothing for the community for restoration and cultural promotion. The local politicians say that the collections are rightfully theirs because the village is in their jurisdiction.

Too bad since the locals wanted to use the funds to purchase instruments to train their children on musical traditions that have faded away. Time is running out as elders who can teach these dying traditions to the local community, are themselves dying of old age. It makes me angry listening to stories and the unfair treatment they get because of a question of turf.

More than a tourism masterplan which politicians are more keen on preparing, Jatiluwih badly needs a masterplan to restore its irrigation system and to protect the subak, most especially the forest reserve above the village which is unfortunately privately-owned. What will stop the owners from building resorts and other infrastructure in this delicate forest reserve as Jatiluwih becomes more popular to tourists? If the unregulated development continues, Jatiluwih may lose the springs that produce the very water that irrigates its rice terraces. This development may erase the very essence of the subak.

Before I left Jatiluwih, we passed by the community temple (pura puseh) of Gunung Sari. I was reminded of the philosophical concept of Tri Hita Karana which the subak system revolves around, the interaction between the spirit, man and nature. This egalitarian and democratic system of farming is the core of this inscription. We should keep that in mind when we visit the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces.