India: Houseboat accommodation in Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir

We've all experienced different kinds of accommodation from luxury resorts and hotels to inns and hostels. They're all available in Srinagar in Kashmir, India as well. But if you want a more authentic experience in Srinagar, you have to stay at a houseboat.

Previous entry: Jamia Masjid & the Nishat Bagh Mughal garden in Srinagar, Kashmir

Houseboats are part of the history and cultural landscape of Srinagar. There are hundreds of them, moored by the shores of Dal Lake and Nigeen Lake. Some historical accounts say these houseboats date back to English colonial rule in India since foreigners were not allowed to own land in Kashmir. And therefore they circumvented this rule by building floating houses on the lakes of Srinagar.

And just like hotels, the quality also varies from budget to the luxurious. I had no idea what to expect.

Our van parked at a small dock on one side of Dal Lake where shikaras (traditional boats) were waiting to take us and our luggage to the houseboats where we would be checking-in. We slowly made our way through the floating community complete with shops, specialty stores and services. The front of most of the houseboats had intricately-carved designs.

The shikara docked beside a cluster of houseboats which I would later learn belonged to a single family. This allows them to welcome large groups, since a houseboat usually has four rooms each.

I was floored when I entered our houseboat. The living room was a showcase of Kashmiri carpets and embroidery, with large chandeliers and massive wooden furniture. Beside it is a dining room where you are served your meals, usually part of the package since you can't find your own food here unless you hire a shikara and explore the lake.

A carpeted hallway connects the four rooms, each with fabulous Kashmiri carpets, intricately-carved wooden beds, cabinets, wall details and ceilings, colorful embroidered curtains and linens (another Kashmiri tradition), chandeliers, and a bathroom with amenities one would expect from a hotel. No air-conditioning, but the cool weather and fans will ensure you sleep in complete comfort.

We were served a sumptuous Kashmiri dinner shortly after we arrived.

And since it's difficult to shop without a shikara, the vendors usually visit the houseboats at night, with large bags containing really good quality cashmere shawls, pashmina and silk scarves, leather clothing and accessories, and Kashmiri gems and jewelry among many others.

In the morning, you can catch the sunrise and watch locals begin their day as they move about in their boats. I'll talk about the vibrant floating community of Dal Lake in another post. The houseboat experience was definitely a pleasant surprise!

P.S. Each houseboat has a name, they can be anything under the sun from local names and foreign cities or countries to imitations and spoofs. Yes, they've got the Holiday Inn, the Kashmir Hilton, and even H.B. Manila and New Manila!

Jet Airways flies daily to Srinagar!
Jet Airways has twice daily flights from Delhi (DEL) to Srinagar (SXR). Jet Airways also connects to Delhi from Manila via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong at least twice daily!

India: Jamia Masjid & the Nishat Bagh Mughal garden in Srinagar, Kashmir

Srinagar, a city of ancient Mughal gardens, picturesque lakes and floating villages, is the capital of Kashmir, India. After enjoying the cool weather and majestic mountain views of Gulmarg, we made our way back to Srinagar to experience the city.

Previous entry: Picturesque views in Gulmarg, Kashmir

We went straight to the Jamia Masjid, the grand mosque of Kashmir in its old city built by Sultan Sikandar Shah Kashmiri and completed in 1402AD. The mosque was destroyed several times by fire. And the current one, inspired by Indo-Saracenic architecture, is a quadrangle with a charming courtyard garden and four minarets with pyramidal roofs.

From the courtyard, you can see the old Durrani Fort built on top of Hari Parbat Hill. We drove close to the fort as me made our way around Dal Lake. There were interesting mosques at the foot of the hill which I wish we had time to explore.

Just looking outside the van window kept us busy as we observed interesting facets of local life in Srinagar.

Our next stop was Nishat Bagh, a terraced Mughal garden built in 1633AD. We visited just at the right time as the late afternoon sun highlighted the vibrant colors of this ancient garden. Behind the garden are the Zabarwan Mountains.

Many locals visit the garden to relax and enjoy the beautiful flora. It's not uncommon to see groups seated together in colorful dresses.

Before proceeding to the house boats on Dal Lake where we were to stay for the next two nights, we had tea while watching the sunset at Vivanta by Taj, a charming resort build on top of a hill with grand views of Dal Lake and the communities around it.

Jet Airways flies daily to Srinagar!
Jet Airways has twice daily flights from Delhi (DEL) to Srinagar (SXR). Jet Airways also connects to Delhi from Manila via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong at least twice daily!

Agusan del Sur: Agusan Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary

Visiting the Agusan Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary is a beautiful experience. But it's not for the faint-hearted given the difficulties in reaching this picturesque wetland.

Several years ago, I stayed overnight with the Manobo community at Sitio Panlabuhan, Loreto, Agusan del Sur, and helped the community create a tourism program for their ancestral domain. This time, I returned with my students to let them experience life in the floating community. I had warned them that traveling to the Agusan Marsh was not easy. And amenities at the Sitio Panlabuhan Floating Community were close to none. But it was worth it, especially with the warm reception of the Manobos who live there.

Related post: Overnight with the Manobo community of Agusan Marsh

We took the first flight to Butuan City and visited the various archaeological sites of the city. We also shopped for sleeping mats which we donated to Sitio Panlabuhan. It's best to leave the rest of your luggage at the hotel you will stay at in Butuan and bring waterproof overnight bags for the trip to Agusan Marsh. Dry bags are highly recommended for cameras and mobile phones.

The plan was to leave for Bunawan, the jump-off point for the Agusan Marsh, after lunch. But we ended up taking the 2:15 p.m. bus to Davao City (Bunawan is along the way). They say the trip from Butuan to Bunawan is between two to three hours, for private vehicles maybe. On a bus however, it takes close to four hours with all the stops. So we arrived in Bunawan after sunset, which you should definitely avoid. If you are coming from Butuan, it is best to leave by 11 a.m.

It takes another three hours by river boat to get to the Agusan Marsh from Bunawan. I realized what we did was quite dangerous, traveling by boat in the dark. We only had flashlights to help us avoid logs and other debris on the river. To make matters worse, it started to rain really hard. It felt like those jungle expeditions you see on TV, especially since crocodiles could just be around the corner.

We had to park the pump boats and cross a small strip of land, under the rain and in the dark, to get to the lake of Sitio Panlabuhan where paddle boats were waiting to take us to the lodge. Note that you have to wear shorts and slippers or sandals since you may have to wade in the water depending on how high water levels are.

At 9 p.m., we finally arrived at our lodge, soaking wet from the rain. After changing into dry clothes, the community served us a really delicious dinner, fresh catch from the Agusan Marsh. If you do not eat fish or for variety, you can buy canned goods in Butuan or Bunawan which they can cook for you.

Since it had just rained, we had cool weather the whole evening. Don't forget the mosquito repellent if you want a good night's sleep.

When you arrive, the head of the community leads a ritual requesting their ancestors to grant you safe entrance into their community. This is very important to them. And they say that if it is not done, something bad will happen to the visitor. Since we arrived really late, the ritual was done as soon as we woke up.

After breakfast, we were brought by paddle boat to other parts of Sitio Panlabuhan where we enjoyed picturesque views of the Agusan Marsh. I noticed though there were not as many birds as my previous visit since it was still October. If you want to see migratory and endemic birds, come during the cold months from late November to early February.

There's an abundance of water hyacinths at the Agusan Marsh. It's actually an invasive species and tends to clog the marsh. The Manobo ladies of Sitio Panlabuhan have been able to weave dried water hyacinths into beautiful bags. If you want to order bags or schedule a trip, contact Maritess Babanto at (0930) 5287194.

The group had an early lunch before leaving for Bunawan. We were back in Butuan by 6 p.m. What an adventure it was, especially for the first-timers!

Heritage Conservation Summit 2013: Heritage & Real Estate Development

The Heritage Conservation Society and the City Government of Quezon City will organize the Heritage Conservation Summit 2013, on 9 November 2013 at Luxent Hotel, Timog Avenue, Quezon City.

The Summit, which is being organized for the second time, has adopted the theme: Heritage and Real Estate Development. It is aimed at bringing together a wide spectrum of participants representing national government, local government units, local historical and heritage societies, academe, heritage conservation practitioners and allied professionals, architects, planners and real estate developers, the tourism industry, and the media. Its primary objective is to discuss and exchange knowledge on the current state of heritage conservation and best practices of adaptive reuse in the Philippines and Asia, its recent developments and the challenges and opportunities faced in the conservation of heritage. The presentations will include successful experiences of real estate developers, local government units and community conservation groups.

We have 200 available slots for the Summit. It will be a one-day affair, with the second day allocated for an optional tour of heritage buildings and sites in Quezon City for interested participants on a first come first served basis. We invite you and your company, organization, agency or school to participate in the summit and learn more about the importance of heritage to real estate development.

On-site registration is Php1,500 inclusive of conference kits and meals.

Pre-register by Wednesday, November 6, 2013, to avail of discounted rates. If pre-registered, participation fees are Php1,000 for professionals, Php800 for HCS members in good standing or masteral students with ID, and Php300 for undergraduate students with ID.

Registration Form
Please copy and paste the text below and e-mail the information to info@heritage.org.ph –

□ I will attend Heritage Conservation Summit 2013: Heritage & Real Estate Development on Saturday, November 9, 2013 at Luxent Hotel, Timog Avenue, Quezon City

FULL NAME:
NAME FOR ID:
POSITION:
ORGANIZATION/ COMPANY:
CONTACT NUMBER:
E-MAIL ADDRESS:

□ I will join the tour of Quezon City heritage sites on Sunday, November 10, 2013

Please issue check payments to HERITAGE CONSERVATION SOCIETY. Cash or check payments could be deposited to BPI C/A No. 8105-8153-61, BPI MH del Pilar Branch. Remember to e-mail your deposit slip to info@heritage.org.ph together with this form and keep the original deposit slip which you have to submit on the day of the summit.

Tentative Program
08:00 - Registration
08:30 - National Anthem
08:35 - Welcome Message – Gemma Cruz Araneta, HCS Chairperson
08:45 - Welcome Message – Hon. Joy G. Belmonte, Vice Mayor, Quezon City
09:00 - Keynote Address – Hon. Herbert M. Bautista, Mayor, Quezon City
09:20 - Adaptive Reuse: Global Trend, Make it Local – Ivan Anthony S. Henares, HCS President
09:30 - Principles of Adaptive Reuse – Archt. Jojo Mata, University of the Philippines
10:00 - Open Forum
10:15 - Coffee Beak
10:30 - Heritage Structures for Rental Housing – Ana Dizon
11:00 - Rise of Vigan Real Estate Values through Heritage – Eric Zerrudo, University of Santo Tomas
11:30 - Open Forum
12:00 - Lunch
13:00 - New Manila: Development Pressure on Heritage Homes – Erik Akpedonu, Ateneo de Manila University
13:30 - Iloilo Business District Revitalization – Archt. Manuel B. Tingzon, Jr.,  ICCHCC Vice Chairperson
14:00 - Adaptive Reuse: Museum of Natural History – Archt. Dom Galicia, HCS Guru
14:30 - Open Forum
14:45 - Coffee Break
15:00 - Adaptive Reuse and Real Estate Development – Eric Manuel, Urban Land Institute Philippines
15:30 - Establishing a Heritage Trust in the Philippines – Atty. Mark Evidente, President, TwoEco, Inc.
16:00 - Rehabilitation of Bohol and Cebu Heritage
16:30 - Open Forum
17:00 - Closing Statement

Rebuilding the heritage churches of Bohol

The Diocese of Tagbilaran has always been exemplary when it comes to heritage conservation. In fact, they are the only diocese in the country actively getting their churches declared, thanks to the efforts of Fr. Ted Torralba. Which explains why they have more than ten properties declared as National Cultural Treasures or National Historical Landmarks within their diocese alone.

Being declared properties, the NCCA and its attached agencies will have a lot to do with the restoration of many of the churches damaged by the October 15, 2013 earthquake in Central Visayas. But the effort will mainly be an undertaking of the Diocese of Tagbilaran which covers the southern half of Bohol Province.

A new bank account was created solely for contributions to the reconstruction and restoration of Bohol's churches. Donations are now accepted:

Account Name: The Roman Catholic Bishop of Tagbilaran
Account No. 123-3-123-51030-6 / Metrobank (Tagbilaran Branch)

To get a receipt for your donation, e-mail your deposit slip to the Diocese of Tagbilaran thru j_asion@yahoo.com or fax to (038) 4115653. List of donors will be published. When the plan developed by the Heritage Task Force is in place and implemented, expenses will also be published.

Fr. Ted Torralba answers some FAQs about the restoration and donations below:

1. How the restoration will be undertaken and who will be on board?
The Diocese of Tagbilaran has a long-standing commitment with the NCCA, NHCP, and the NM to abide by accepted national and international standards of heritage conservation. It has a functioning Diocesan Commission for the Cultural Heritage of the Church established in July 1995, predecessor to an earlier diocesan committee for church restoration created in 1993, to monitor intervention on heritage churches, implement the cultural heritage law of the Church and of the Government, and recommend approval of any heritage intervention, subject to the authority of the Bishop of Tagbilaran who has the final decision on the pastoral care of heritage resources. Its activities in the area of the pastoral care of the cultural heritage resources of the Church prompt the creation of the CBCP Permanent Committee of the Cultural Heritage of the Church and advanced the preparation of the Holy See - Philippines international agreement on the cultural heritage of the Catholic Church in the Philippines.

In the present circumstances, it awaits the results of the rapid assessment of the NCCA Heritage Task Force (coordinated by the undersigned) which is expected to be released this coming Monday, 21 October. The Diocese will abide by the restoration and/or reconstruction plan developed by the said Task Force. It awaits the rapid creation of the Task Force's field office headquartered at the NM's branch in Tagbilaran opposite the Tagbilaran Cathedral. Aside from technical experts from the National Government cultural agencies, the Diocese fields its Sacred Architecture Committee members as collaborators with the Task Force's field office. This said committee is one of five under the Diocese's Commission for the Cultural Heritage of the Church.  It is constituted of four architects trained in heritage conservation and two structural engineers.

2. What form of cooperative engagement will we have here?
MOAs will be signed on Thursday between the NM (which has jurisdiction over all the declared churches in the Diocese), the Provincial Government of Bohol, and the Diocese of Tagbilaran. The MOAs come under the umbrella of R.A. 10066 and the above-referenced Holy See - Philippines international agreement. Bilateral or multilateral agreements will subsequently be entered into with other National Government cultural agencies as the needs arise.

3. How will the donations be managed and reported?
On the matter of donations to the Diocese of Tagbilaran for restoration and reconstruction, all will be receipted and accounted for. List of donors will be published from time to time as well as expenses incurred during the restoration process.  The Diocese has the time-honored custom of printing in the weekly news bulletins of its parishes all the donations, tithes, offerings given and the expenditures incurred. It will do the same for this massive project.

Built heritage damaged by Central Visayas earthquake
This is a list of built heritage damaged during the October 15, 2013 earthquake that hit Central Visayas. This list is not limited to religious structures. Please update this list by commenting below.

Declared properties: NCT - National Cultural Treasure; NHL - National Historical Landmark; ICP - Important Cultural Property; HH - Heritage House

Bohol
Alburquerque Church (ICP) - minimal damage
Baclayon Church (NCT & NHL) - facade & belfry collapsed
Balihan Watchtower (NCT) - totally destroyed
Bohol Capitol (ICP)
Carmen Church - nave with ceiling murals collapsed
Clarin Church - church collapsed
Clarin House, Loay (HH)
Cortes Church - facade collapsed
Dauis Church (NCT & NHL) - facade collapsed
Dimiao Church (NHL) -
Inabanga Church - facade left standing
Loay Church (NHL) - facade collapsed
Loboc Church (NCT & NHL) -
Loon Church (NCT & NHL) - totally destroyed
Maribojoc Church (NCT & NHL) - totally destroyed
Maribojoc Presidencia
Panglao Watchtower (NCT) - roof fell in
Punta Cruz Watchtower, Maribojoc (NCT)
Tubigon Church - facade collapsed

Cebu
Argao Church (NHL) - minor damage, baluster of belfry gave way
Basilica Minore del Sto. Nino - belfry collapsed
Carcar Church - big crack in belfry; may collapse
Cebu Cathedral - aesthetic damage to facade
Dalaguete Church (NHL) - heavy damage to belfry and pediment; may collapse
Fort San Pedro - heavy damage to walls
Sibonga Church - some cracks

Related articles
FAQs on church heritage conservation in the Philippines
Bohol: Visita iglesia, heritage churches and watchtowers