Exploring Northern Thailand and Laos

For many, it’s quite difficult to travel and get away from work for more than a week. If we do get the chance, we always try to make the most out of it. Last November, I spent three weeks in Thailand and Laos.

From Bangkok we flew to Sukhothai to attend a cultural tourism workshop. The Historic Town of Sukhothai, the capital of the first Kingdom of Siam between the 13th and 15th centuries, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On the first day, we got to tour the ruins of the royal palace and ancient temples in the Sukhothai Historical Park.

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Twelve heritage towns near Manila

There is no doubt that Vigan, Ilocos Sur is the best preserved colonial town in the Philippines. But for those in Metro Manila who just want to make a day-trip to a nearby heritage town, here are twelve places you might want to visit.

1. Taal, Batangas
Taal (the town, not the volcano) is the best preserved Spanish colonial town near Manila. People might be thinking Tagaytay City because of its view of Taal Volcano, but the town is actually 42 kilometers away. The historic town center of Taal was declared a National Historical Landmark. Dozens of Spanish colonial homes, several historical landmarks, the Taal Municipal Hall, Santa Lucia Well, and two centuries-old churches — the Taal Basilica and Caysasay Shrine — are among the highlights of a visit to Taal.

The town has several museums including the homes of Marcela Agoncillo, Felipe Agoncillo, Leon Apacible and Gliceria Villavicencio and the Galleria Taal. Don't forget to visit the local market where you can buy good quality piña and other embroidered cloths for barongs and Filipiniana dresses. Popular dishes from Taal are longganisa, tapa, adobo sa dilaw, empanada, panutsa, suman, tawilis (tawilis is now an endangered species, don't eat it) and tulingan. The balisong, a pocket knife which is also known as the butterfly knife, is also from Taal.

It's easy to do a day-trip to Taal. For those with vehicles, exit the STAR Tollway at Lipa (Taal town is about 32 kilometers from the exit). Please check this map for directions. By public transportation, take a bus to Lemery, Batangas and a then a jeep or tricycle to Taal. After exploring Taal, you can opt to have dinner in Tagaytay City, proceeding there via Lemery and Diokno Highway. But be prepared for the traffic snarls in Tagaytay. There are also several old houses which offer overnight accommodation such as Casa Severina and Villa Tortuga. Here's more information on Taal.

2. Pila, Laguna

Another National Historical Landmark close to Manila is Pila, Laguna. This heritage town is a beautiful collection of colonial homes surrounding a green plaza with the Pila Municipal Hall at one end and the Pila Church on the opposite end. Walking around the plaza is like entering a time machine since the historic fabric of the town is relatively intact.

Even beyond the plaza are fantastic examples of Filipino homes built during the Spanish and American colonial periods. So if you're on your way to Santa Cruz, Pagsanjan or beyond, make sure to include Pila in your itinerary. Any bus to Santa Cruz, Laguna will pass through Pila.

3. Balayan, Batangas

Balayan is another Batangas town that is rich in heritage. The Balayan Church is a National Cultural Treasure. And many of its old ancestral homes are still intact. 

I heard the locals are planning a heritage tourism program. But for now, the homes are not open to the public though. Walking around the town will definitely make an interesting historical tour. You might want to pass by Balayan especially on the way to the neighboring town of Calatagan. And just further down the road is Calaca, which has a nice Spanish colonial church and several ancestral houses.

4. Sariaya, Quezon
Further down south is Sariaya, Quezon. It has a fabulous Art Deco municipal hall and three of its many ancestral mansions are declared heritage houses — Natalio Enriquez House, Rodriguez House and Gala-Rodriguez House. The Sariaya Church is also quite interesting with convent buildings on both sides. Too bad though the local government built a multi-purpose hall on one side of what would have been a classic example of a colonial plaza.

The best time to visit Sariaya is on May 15 when the town celebrates the feast of San Isidro Labrador. The ancestral houses are also opened for a fee. But you'll have to deal with the crowds who a troop to Quezon for the many colorful celebrations on that day. Any bus to Lucena, Quezon passes through Sariaya.

5. San Juan, Batangas
San Juan, Batangas is another town with many Art Deco mansions. Few people pass through the town's historic center on the way to Laiya Beach not realizing its hidden treasure. None of the houses in San Juan have been declared. Hopefully the local government has the vision to create a heritage tourism program that will complement Laiya Beach.

6. San Fernando, Pampanga
San Fernando is known for many things — the Giant Lantern Festival, San Pedro Cutud Lenten Rites, and great Kapampangan food among others! It also has managed to preserve a small historic quarter in the downtown area. Five houses have been declared heritage houses — Lazatin House, Hizon-Singian House, Henson-Hizon House, Dayrit House and Augusto P. Hizon House. The San Fernando Train Station, where Rizal got off during his trip to invite friends to the La Liga Filipina and where the long walk of the Bataan Death March ended, still stands.

The San Fernando Cathedral and Pampanga Provincial Capitol can also be found in the heritage district. What excites me is the prospect of revitalizing the PASUDECO Sugar Central for conversion into a shopping and entertainment complex. My fingers are crossed.

San Fernando must be the only city in the Philippines where motorized tricycles are not allowed in the downtown area. Instead, the historic center still has many kalesas (horse-drawn carriages) which can take you for a tour around the city. Here is more information on San Fernando.

After you tour, make sure to have breakfast, lunch or merienda in the many restaurants in the city (Everybody's Cafe is an institution) that serve authentic Kapampangan cuisine. You can also visit the nearby Bacolor Church and Betis Church, a National Cultural Treasure. Too bad Bacolor's ancestral mansions were covered by lahar. Pampanga lost a heritage treasure!

7. Malolos, Bulacan
Malolos was a revolutionary capital of the Philippines. The Barasoain Church, home of the Malolos Congress, has always been featured on Philippine currency. The city's historic center was declared a National Historical Landmark especially since many of the houses served as offices of the Philippine Revolutionary Government.

Too bad though that many of the owners don't seem to understand the historical value of their homes. And quite a number have been dismantled by eager antique dealers, despite being declared. So visit Malolos while it's still there, and before antique dealers beat us to it. This city would have made such an interesting heritage walk!

8. Kawit, Cavite
The birthplace of the Republic of the Philippines, Kawit has three major heritage sites — Emilio Aguinaldo Shrine (where the declaration of Philippine independence was made on June 12, 1898), Baldomero Aguinaldo Shrine and the Kawit Church. Aside from those three important sites, there's nothing much to see in Kawit. But most people stop by Kawit as part of any Cavite historical tour or day-trip which goes all the way to Maragondon.

9. Maragondon, Cavite
Another town on the Cavite historical trail, Maragondon has three important sites — Maragondon Church, Bonifacio Trial House and the Execution Site of Andres Bonifacio. The Maragondon Church is a National Cultural Treasure. While the Bonifacio Trial House is a National Historical Landmark. Here is more information on Maragondon.

10. San Miguel, Bulacan

San Miguel is a charming old town with beautiful ancestral mansions. But the charm is fast disappearing because the local government of San Miguel, Bulacan has not really done anything to ensure the protection of the local heritage. 

Part of the Biak na Bato National Park is also in San Miguel. Ironically, despite the large number of ancestral houses, none of them are declared. So just like Malolos, better visit San Miguel before the heritage disappears.

11. Biñan, Laguna
We've all heard the battle cry "Save the Alberto House!" The historic home of Teodora Alonso's family is still in Biñan, or what's left of it. I was pleasantly surprised to see so many Spanish colonial houses in Biñan. In fact, some of them still have clay tile roofs. The only things that need to be addressed are cleanliness and order in the heritage street which is very close to the market. Biñan actually has much potential as a heritage destination. Hopefully the heritage quarter is declared and revitalized by the local government.

12. Malabon, Metro Manila
Okay, so Malabon is part of Metro Manila! But it's at the edge and I just had to include it in this list. Most people don't realize that Malabon, as well as Navotas, used to be a separate islands until shortsighted reclamation projects fused it with the rest of Luzon. And we wonder why the area floods? Back to the heritage, Malabon has a fantastic collection of heritage houses. I wonder if the local government even realizes the potential for tourism. There are occasional cultural tours to Malabon, maybe once a year. But on a regular day, you'll have to explore on your own. While you are there, try out the pansit, sapin-sapin, kikiam, sumpia and broas!

Other interesting heritage towns near Metro Manila are (13) Tayabas (Tayabas Basilica, Malagonlong Bridge and several other bridges are National Cultural Treasures) and (14) Lucban in Quezon, (15) Angeles City (Angeles Church, Pamintuan Mansion, Museo ning Angeles and Center for Kapampangan Studies) and (16) Santa Rita in Pampanga, (17) Paete (Paete Church), (18) Pakil (Pakil Church) and (19) Pagsanjan in Laguna, and (20) Bustos in Bulacan. Did I miss out any heritage town near Manila?

India: Ten good reasons for Filipinos to visit Kerala

Namaskaram from Kerala, India! Kerala is, no doubt, a beautiful destination. But many Filipinos overlook Kerala as a vacation destination simply because it is unfamiliar or maybe because there is an impression that getting to India costs a lot. I'm listing down ten good reasons why Filipinos should visit Kerala. I got to experience this beautiful Indian state for two weeks. And I definitely enjoyed the experience!

1. Budget flights are available from Manila via Singapore and KL
When the timing is right, you can get really cheap airfare to Thiruvananthapuram/Trivandrum (TRV) and Kochi (COK) via Tiger Airways (connecting flight in Singapore) and to Kochi via AirAsia (connecting flight in Kuala Lumpur). My one-way ticket from Kochi to KL on AirAsia was about Php4500 inclusive of baggage allowance, meals and taxes. You can also play around with combinations using Philippine-based carriers to Singapore and KL such as PAL and Cebu Pacific for more cost options. For full service, Jet Airways has affordable flights from Hong Kong, Singapore and Bangkok.

2. Tourist Visa on Arrival (TVOA) in Trivandrum and Kochi
Just last year, the airports in Thiruvananthapuram/Trivandrum (TRV) and Kochi (COK) were included in the TVOA for Philippine passport holders for stays up to 30 days. You need to prepare the following: (1) passport valid for six months upon arrival with two unused pages; (2) a return or onward ticket; (3) hotel reservation; (4) sufficient funds; (5) two passport size photographs; and (6) USD60 visa fee.

3. Kerala is very affordable and the people are extremely nice
One thing we liked about Kerala is that the destination is very affordable for our budgets. Many things are actually cheaper than what it would cost in the Philippines. And the people in South India are generally nicer to tourists than other places in India. Which is why our stay was extra pleasant!

4. Houseboat in the backwaters
Now for my favorite experiences, the first would be the overnight stay in a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala. We did this in Alappuzha (Alleppey) around Vembanad Lake, the largest lake in Kerala. Backwaters are where rivers, lakes and estuaries meet the beach and the sea. It's a charming cultural landscape especially with the simple rural lifestyle and colorful culture that exists in these backwaters. While we're used to many of these scenes in the Philippines (the village tours might not be as interesting especially if you come from the provinces), the houseboat stay was one of a kind! It was a relaxing and pleasant trip through pristine backwaters. It was a chill experience if I may say!

5. Wildlife sanctuaries and the Western Ghats
Who wants to visit a zoo when you can see wild elephants in the many wildlife sanctuaries all over Kerala! The eastern area of Kerala is part of the Western Ghats, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, we saw wild elephants, gaur (Indian bison), sambar deer, wild boar, a striped-necked mongoose, and many species of birds among others. Driving through the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, we saw even more wild elephants, spotted deer and Malabar giant squirrels among others.

6. Hill stations and tea plantations
Being a former British territory, tea is a very important product of the many hill stations they established all over India. Kerala has many of them. And the most spectacular of these tea plantations are in Munnar. It was a pleasant drive going to Munnar as we took in these beautiful scenes of tea fields and workers picking tea.

7. Kerala is the land of Ayuveda
Even during a previous trip to India, I was told that the center of Ayurveda is Kerala. Which is why I was excited that I was getting Ayurvedic treatments in Kerala. The state has an abundance of forests with the herbs and medicinal plants needed for Ayurveda. The secret of Ayurveda is in the herbal oils that they rub onto your body. So make sure to try the Ayurveda when you visit Kerala.

8. Delicious food and colorful culture
For centuries, traders have sought Kerala's famed spices. The Romans, Phoenicians, Chinese, Arabs, Jews, and later, the Europeans, all landed in Kerala to trade spices. In fact, Christopher Columbus was headed west to search for Kerala's spices but instead found America. So it's no surprise that the food in Kerala is an experience worth trying. In fact, Travel + Leisure chose Kerala's breakfast as one of the best in the world!

Classical performing arts is also a major attraction. One of the cultural symbols of Kerala is Kathakali, with its elaborate costumes and colorful facial make-up. There is definitely much more!

9. Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram heritage
Kerala has been a center of trade and melting pot of cultures for thousands of years. Before Kerala, there were three major kingdoms: Travancore, Kochi and Malabar. Although much of the heritage was destroyed by a succession of colonizers, its historical character remains alive in places like Kochi and Thiruvananhapuram. I enjoyed walking around Fort Kochi and Mattancherry in Kochi. The details of the gopuram of the Padmanabha Swamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram were fantastic! Many of the stately British colonial buildings can be found in Trivandrum.

10. Many luxury resorts all over the state
Budget travelers will definitely enjoy Kerala. But high-end travelers who prefer staying at luxury or five-star resorts will also have a feast! Kerala has fantastic resorts, many of them branded, all over the state. There are resorts by the beach, in the heart of the backwaters or in the middle of the pristine forests of the Western Ghats. Among my favorites are Vivanta by Taj Kovalam near Trivandrum, Coconut Lagoon in Kumarakom, WelcomHotel Raviz Kavadu in Kozhikode (Calicut), Spice Village Resort in Thekkady, Vythiri Resort and Tranquil Resort in Wayanad and Estuary Island Resort in Poovar. For a high-end houseboat experience, we did Lakes and Lagoons in Alappuzha (Alleppey). Kerala also has comfortable five-star business hotels in major cities. I stayed at Vivanta by Taj Malabar Cochin and Crown Plaza Kochi, both fantastic hotels in Kochi.

Other great hotels and we stayed at during this trip were Quilon Beach Hotel in Kollam Beach, KTDC Tea County in Munnar, Vasco Dagama Beach Resort in Kappad Beach, and the Abad Airport Hotel in Kochi. Many of them have really nice beaches too!

Traveling beyond Kerala
Kerala is a good jump-off point for neighboring Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Goa. You can also take a train or flight to major cities in North India and fly out from there. But there's no doubt, Kerala is God's Own Country. And Filipinos will definitely enjoy exploring this beautiful Indian state. I did!

Instagram: Idukki (Thekkady & Munnar) in Kerala, India

After the backwaters, we drove up the Western Ghats to Thekkady and the hill station town of Munnar. In Thekkady, we visited the Periyar National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary, a World Heritage Site as part of the Western Ghats, where we went on a boat safari on Periyar Lake. We got to see wild elephants (Elephas maximus), sambar deer (Rusa unicolor), gaur or Indian bison (Bos gaurus), wild boar (Sus scrofa), a striped-necked mongoose (Herpestes vitticollis) and many species of birds.

We then moved on to the hill station of Munnar. Around the town are the largest tea plantations in Kerala which create a spectacular cultural landscape. Munnar itself is a busy mountain town with an even busier local market. For more photos, follow @ivanhenares on Instagram.

This is what we saw at the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala, India! Wild elephants!

Sambar deer, gaur (Indian bison), elephants, wild boar, a mongoose and different species of birds were among the animals we saw at the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala, India

Fantastic cultural landscape at Munnar, Kerala's tea country!

Kerala's tea plantations in Munnar with the Western Ghats as a backdrop are so picturesque! Every turn was another beautiful scene to enjoy! Indeed this is God's own country!

An auto rickshaw makes its way through a busy street of Munnar Market in Kerala, India

Instagram: Alappuzha (Alleppey) in Kerala, India

One of my favorite experiences in Kerala, India was our overnight stay on a houseboat. We did this in the backwaters of Alappuzha (Alleppey) and Vembanad Lake, the largest lake in Kerala. Kettuvallams were previously used as rice transport boats. When roads were built, they fell into disuse and the boatmen lost their livelihood. In the 1990s, someone thought of converting them into houseboats. They started with three. Now they have over 800. For more photos, follow @ivanhenares on Instagram.

Vembanad Lake is the largest lake in Kerala & the longest in India. We are staying overnight in a houseboat in the backwaters of Alappuzha (Alleppey)

School bus! Errr... Here's a school boat taking children home in the backwaters of Alappuzha (Alleppey) in Kerala, India